CK5
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'91 K5 Four Wheel Camper

This is the build for my 1991 V1500 Blazer, AKA the K5.3. It started out life being sold to the U.S. Government with a 350 TBI/700r4/241 combo. 4 years with a 5.3/700r4 Combo and now moving to an 8.1L Vortec and NV4500 5-speed.
The AutoMeter tach reads correctly now. Based on info from AutoMeter I added a 1/2 watt 10k ohm resistor between the power and signal circuits. It seemed to fix the problem. I monitored the tach signal using my phone/scan tool dongle and the tach was reading right on the mark with the PCM data.
 
I'm working up a write up on the fun that was had in Moab before, during and after Blazer Bash. But the cliff note version is my son and I might have bitten off more than we could chew. Steelbender was the hardest trail we've attempted. We hurt the Crawlabago. I'll get into the how that happened in my trip report, but the results stacked up pretty heavy.

Cracked 241 rear housing (lost all fluid)
taco'd steering tie rod
failed Warn premium hub
D44 spindle damaged from loose hub nuts (lots-o-flakes in the grease)
Core support bolts loosened up and spit out a body bushing
Dented the Warn bumper on "the Fall"
blown hose from ARB compressor to the OBA tank

I've been collecting parts since we got back. So first up is the D44 spindle. I pulled a fresh used unit from a Suburban in the pull-n-pay. Picked up new bearings and hub seal from the parts store. My son has expressed an interest to be more active in the build and repair process. He's always liked going along, but the hands-on side before didn't do anything for him. He's now seen the importance of knowing what's what when stuff goes wrong. We planned on getting some stuff done this weekend.

I let him handle the tools and gave him directions on what to do. He did pretty well. Though he struggled getting the inner hub nut loose. Strangely, there was no smoking gun to say what was the starting point to the failure. The bearing races and where the bearings ride on the spindle showed no signs of heat/discoloring and were all smooth with no damage from the grit in the grease. The little stud on the inner hub nut was pretty low and the edges rounded over. I need to look closer to the failed lockout to see if there are any signs. When I opened it up on the trail the outer hub nut had backed off so much it was grinding on the backside of the lockout assembly.

You can see how much the nut was ground against the lockout by the chamfer cut into the nut.

The used replacement with a normal-looking outer nut.

The kid getting to work.

Tearing it down.


I killed almost two cans of brake clean trying to get the slurry of grease and metal chunks/flakes out of the inside of the hub. There was a ton. I took the races out and found zero damage to the surface of the races. With the old spindle cleaned of grease, the bearing surfaces were again free of surface damage. It tells me at least the bearings were in adjustment at least for the ride out and a couple of the pre-BB trails run. Whatever the source, the spindle is still not going back on because @Bent77 and @fastazz81 were dead on correct when I tried to take it apart on the trail. The inner nut was fighting me when I tried to back it off and they wisely told me to stop and tighten it back up. If I took it off on the trail and it wouldn't go back on we would have had a three-wheeled wonder on the trail that would have required a lot of help to get out of there. The nut will not thread back on right now. Good call boys.

I installed the outer race to the clean hub and went on to do the inner. Turns out the old guy at Napa that struggled to look up the bearings guessed wrong. So I needed another one and we were running out of daylight so we called it a day.

I've got a D60 lined up to replace the D44 we are currently working on. I'm not going to stuff the 60 in right away as it looks like its never been apart and hasn't been on the road since 2012 based on the only registration in the glove box. The guy who has it, bought the truck at auction in Pueblo. It was setup with a snowplow and dump bed, which one is pretty useless in Pueblo. He did say he hooked up his car to it and pulled it with the truck back to Denver. He said the truck didn't have any odd handling or signs of death wobble. But he admitted other than moving it around the yard he hasn't driven it on the road much. Which is why I think it's smart to give the 60 a once over prior to installation. It has the right ratio (4.10) that I need, but it is lacking any traction device. So I'd like to save up a little and put a selectable locker in it before we put it in.




 
^This, even if you don’t need it, it’s nice to know you have it.

My 60 looked way worse than that when I bought it, I put new axle joints in, repacked the bearings greased the king pins and ran it.
 
The 44 has served me well. If it wasn’t for the price of the 60 I’d stay with the 44 though. I would have still had a problem if the hub nuts backed off on the 60.

But having it will bring an extra layer of insurance. Even more so if I don’t go nuts on harder trails.
 
The 44 has served me well. If it wasn’t for the price of the 60 I’d stay with the 44 though. I would have still had a problem if the hub nuts backed off on the 60.

But having it will bring an extra layer of insurance. Even more so if I don’t go nuts on harder trails.
You should keep upgrading so you can go clubbing. Clubbing of baby seals
 
The 44 has served me well. If it wasn’t for the price of the 60 I’d stay with the 44 though. I would have still had a problem if the hub nuts backed off on the 60.

But having it will bring an extra layer of insurance. Even more so if I don’t go nuts on harder trails.
And the added bonus of getting to rally mode and @$$hole passes
 
I feel your pain Rob, just got back home after being gone for a few weeks. I dropped the truck off after BB and need to assist the damage.

I got a feeling we are going to share similar paths
 
I feel your pain Rob, just got back home after being gone for a few weeks. I dropped the truck off after BB and need to assist the damage.

I got a feeling we are going to share similar paths
We are taking little bites at it. I’ve got parts here for most of the issues.

The kid is coming over today to finish the spindle job. That’s going to depend on the weather though. On and off rain in the forecast.

Once the truck can roll again we will shuffle the parking to put the Blazer next to the front garage. That area is flat and much easier to work over there than on the slope of the main driveway. The t-case will come out next.

With the driveshafts out I’m going to send them over to Front Range Driveline to get the cv assemblies serviced as they haven’t been touched since we got the truck on the road 7 years ago. That puts me at a crossroads as I’ve still got the slip yoke housing on the 241. The current setup has been flawless. Absolutely zero driveline vibration at any speed.

My concern is going with a SYE is going to add 5-6” in length to the driveshaft. That change will soften the shaft angle and may require adjustment to the pinion angle.

Cost adds into the mix but this is ideal time for sure. I spoke with the driveline shop and they thought it wouldn’t be too dramatic of a change. Going to run $150-200 to change the rear shaft over to a fixed yoke with a slip shaft and some added length.

It’s probably going to get the SYE but I needed to convince myself.
Yep haven't touched mine, I know it needs new front shocks and I have to investigate play in rear pinion input shaft and rear output of 205. I still have a case of drinking water in it and who knows what else.
I totally understand parking and not wanting to fool with it for a little bit.
 
If you have a double cardan at the t case end with a SYE you’ll need to point the pinion inline with the driveshaft so you may still need to rotate the pinion up
 
If you have a double cardan at the t case end with a SYE you’ll need to point the pinion inline with the driveshaft so you may still need to rotate the pinion up

Yeah that’s how it is right now. The issue I see is since I already have an 8 degree shim at the axle to get the pinion to match the shaft. The longer shaft is going to lessen the shaft angle slightly.

Thinking about it more I just don’t look forward to popping U-bolts and messing with all that. But once the 60 goes in the front will be up an inch higher over the 44 so to level it I’ll need to put a zero rate anyway to make it match.

I’ll probably just get it together and drive it. If it needs adjustment I’ll know what to do then.

The kid got the spindle swap job buttoned up today.
C0D16AA0-4DA5-47C5-9323-3B2F81925892.jpeg


I pulled the grill to tighten the core support and install the new lower bushing. Though I only had one side. So I’ll do the other side when that comes in.

The radiator needs to come out too. There is at least one tube at the tank that is weeping. I’ll see if I can find a shop to solder it. I thought it might have been a hose clamp but the wet corner of the radiator says otherwise.

I don’t think there is much more to address that I didn’t already know about.
 

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