Everything checked out fine and it hasn't drained again. I think something was left on.
CK5
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PLAN B
This build was 2 parts 1 i have a truck I made to pretty to wheel so I'm building an ugly one I can actually enjoy.
And 2. My cousin has been trying to join us for blazer bash but his truck wont be ready so we are surprising him with this one
I take that back. I drove it the other day. Let it sit for a couple days and the battery is 100% dead again... the only thing I did was roll down the rear window and drop the tailgate. The tailgate has been open but it's not like that turns on a light...
As soon as I posted that last comment I got in the truck and noticed a faint glow of my brake controller. There's some short in that where if it gets moved around the light turns on, maybe that's the culprit. I disconnected the power feeding the controller and will watch it after I charge the battery.
In other news I installed a @CFMi gas tank skid plate in my truck. Seems beefy! I can't wait to test it out!
Here's the video
In other news I installed a @CFMi gas tank skid plate in my truck. Seems beefy! I can't wait to test it out!
Here's the video
I guess the brake controller wasn't the issue. I charged the truck overnight then did a repair cycle on it. After disconnecting the charger it sat for 2 hours and the volts dropped to 12.44. I started pulling fuses again and nothing stood out. Then I started to go through my ls wiring. I remember people saying to just cut the brown wire that went to the old alternator and not hook it up to anything. I didn't listen, seems like that wire has a solid draw (sometimes) watch this video and you'll see that if I disconnect it the volts jump up snd if i connect it the volts drop. (My amp meter is broken so i can only go off volts)
Brown wire is c4.
Brown wire is c4.
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Well it sat overnight and when I tested the battery the volts were higher than they were when I went to bed. I think this wire was the issue. I guess when the people of the internet tell you not to connect a wire you should listen.
I need some guidance. The brakes in plan B SUCK. What do you guys do for an upgrade without going hydroboost.
I checked and post ls swap I still have decent vacuum. My pedal just feels soft and it has no bite. Dana 60 / FF14B with disks in the rear.
I checked and post ls swap I still have decent vacuum. My pedal just feels soft and it has no bite. Dana 60 / FF14B with disks in the rear.
Did you swap proportioning valves when you did rear disc? Master and booster? Dana 60 front calipers hold a good bit more fluid than 1/2 ton stuff…
I was wondering something similar myself. Now that I'm going to disc brakes all the way around. Do I need a different proportion valve? The Dana 60F calipers are huge compared to the original calipers on the truck.
You need a master with a larger bore to move more fluid. I run this one and have a real nice stiff pedal and way more stopping power than I need. I do have hydroboost though.
I'm going to "try" a new MC, the original part that came on the my truck.
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No Dana 60 here but used a one ton master cylinder for my Era truck, I put a 14 bolt rear in, which was already disc swapped.
The big difference in pedal feel and no brake fade was the residual pressure valve and an adjustable proportioning valve. Lots of skid tests and adjusting and brakes have been great since 2006.
The big difference in pedal feel and no brake fade was the residual pressure valve and an adjustable proportioning valve. Lots of skid tests and adjusting and brakes have been great since 2006.
I got mine for a 78 K30, with 1-5/16 bore. Discarded all of the factory prop valves and put an inline adjustable valve to the rear. Dialed in the right pressure and it works awesome.
When I swapped my rear 14b to disc and put the front 60 in I had a spongy pedal until I swapped in the one ton master. This proportioning valve works well
www.speedwaymotors.com
GM Disc/Disc Proportioning Valve for 1/2-20, 9/16-18 Outlets
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My adj valve is also on the rear and I too ditched the oem valve. Mine is adjusted so very little goes to rear. They lock up at same time front and rear. Some scariness during testing until you get the rear not to lock up first.
That's how mine is. I'm running a 3/4 ton 10 bolt front and I have a 14 bolt out back with 1/2 ton calipers. Slightly smaller piston than the fronts. I did a disc/disc prop valve but it really made no difference. I added an adjustable one to the rear circuit and it is turned almost all the way off.
I found that the proportioning valve did very little as well, the master made the biggest difference. Someone (I think ruff stuff) makes brackets to run front 10b calipers on the 60 so you can clear 15” wheels. I would imagine running those calipers would have the same effect as running the bigger master
No proportioning valve here and I haven’t noticed any difference.
I agree with the idea that switching to smaller calipers would effectively be the same as a bigger master cylinder but I really struggle with going to smaller brakes while going up on tire size.
I agree with the idea that switching to smaller calipers would effectively be the same as a bigger master cylinder but I really struggle with going to smaller brakes while going up on tire size.
I struggled with the same subpar brakes. I did the brackets from skys on my Dana 60 to run 3/4 ton rotors and the regular 1/2 ton calipers, and I can tell you my brakes are excellent again. I still run the factory booster, master and proportioning valve (1/2 ton stuff ) with my rear discs as well.
I just took the guts out of the stock proportioning valve. I could add something to adjust the rears some but on asphalt I can't get the front or rears to lock up. I can stand on the brakes without locking them up.
I think a hydroboost and vacuum boost use different master cylinders right? So I need to find a bigger master designed for a vacuum boost system. My master is the factory type unit for the K5
I think a hydroboost and vacuum boost use different master cylinders right? So I need to find a bigger master designed for a vacuum boost system. My master is the factory type unit for the K5
So just to stir the thinking tank some more, what about spending some more money on top of a master cylinder upgrade and do the Dodge caliper upgrade to the front too??
