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Yank Tank Molotov/3+3, 454/magnum/Allison

'84 K30 Silverado "big Dooley"
Overview Gallery Discussion
So after bleeding the brakes the pedal feels better but still weird, it's my first dirc conversion so I guess it's bc the drums are no longer controlling pedal height. Haven't driven on it more than 100ft as now the trans is kicking out of gear after a couple seconds. Hopefully it just needs to be cleared again since I started it with the plug undone again.
Frint drive shaft is in and fits perfectly. Pretty close to the transmission pan but should be fine.

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So the saga continues. Upon installing the triple stick and permanent wiring of the nsbu 7-2 pin plug, and installing new trans lines (old were sweaty) the trans now kicks out of gear abruptly. This happens in any gear. Shift to the next gear in any direction and it goes right back in to gear. It kicks out soon as the accelerator is pressed. There is also no tcm code. No illumination.

What I've tried:

Put the old nsbu switch back on. Adjust. No

Wire the nsbu direct to the battery like the original test where I had all 5 gears for a ride around town. Nope

Checked the plugs on the trans, pass through connector and vss. All seem good

Checked the red and Grey connector at the tcm. Appears fine and ground pin has ground.

Of course retracing my steps. I also feel it must still have something to do with the nsbu wiring. All unused wires in the 7 pin (5) were separately insulated and then shrunk in a larger harness to look clean.

It was getting late, tomorrow IL going to try hard wiring the 7 pin to the battery like the test to see if it works again :dunno:Fml

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Copy n paste from my Allison thread bc I'm lazy.

Retracing my steps, I finalized wiring for the +/- on the 7 pin of the nsbu. Double checked alignment of the selector shaft. Pulled the vss back out of the output housing. Checked the tone wheel for play. All good. Looking at the pickup on the vss it appeared it could be contacting the tone wheel from the mangled o-ring on the threads that was also starting to weep fluid from distortion. Replaced the oring with a slightly thicker part with a smaller diameter to keep it from walking out. Keep in mind this speedo housing is re-machined to fit the aftermarket vss. The housing doesn't have anough thread to counter sink the surface for the o-ring for a better fit so when I tightened it I was very careful to just snug down on the o-ring enough to seal adequately without plunging the pickup too far towards the tone wheel. Fired up and brought to temp, checked fluid an put it in gear. All good. Took it around the block and shifted through to third a few times. Confident that it'll shift to 4-5 for now. At this point I did shift to 2wd low. This did not go as well. The Allison did not like shifting to 2nd with this differential in vss speed to trans rpm. It wouldn't shift to 3rd and seemed to derate rpm at 3k. There is a detent plug for the factory 263 tcase that I'm not using that I was assuming was just for illumination but I suppose it could work in conjunction with some of the 4wd signals to the nsbu 7pin. I'll have to dig through the factory schematic for sure. For now I'm glad to be able to drive the truck.
 
Switched out the hydro boost unit today. Old one was leaking in and out of the truck pretty bad. Brakes feel better but the pedal is still low and not where I'd like them. I suppose a prop valve is next. 50degrees and 100% humidity in the shop today I could swore it was gonna rain in the shop! Took a good 50 mile trip in the rain, delay wipers are workin now as well!

Sad note I still have a dead hole on the passenger side. Gotta check the plugs and possibly a compression test to rule out mechanical problems. All coils, plugs and wires are new... :1zhelp:

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follow me test it . . 1 at a time tho .

swap plug ? does it move
swap wire ? does it move
swap coil ? does it move
last ditch swap injector ? does it move

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brakes if your doing disk rear ditch the stock valve for sure . get the 1 built with a inline rear adjustable valve . and if still running load senser valve in rear to axle bypass it . last depending on size of rear stuff maybe a bigger master is needed ..

i would like to try it some day but stock 1985 k30 13" x 3.5 shoe rear master is 33.3375mm bore disc/drum and a 1998 c3500HD only with hydroboost is disc/disc and 40mm bore also swaps you to a aluminum unit with plastic tank so its cleaner / less mess / see fluid level . and the c3500HD trucks used our dana 60 size calipers front and rear on them from the factory .i wish someone made a bracket kit for the 14ff rear to swap on these calipers and then i would try this combo .
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Last edited:
sweetk30 said:
follow me test it . . 1 at a time tho .

swap plug ? does it move
swap wire ? does it move
swap coil ? does it move
last ditch swap injector ? does it move

---------------------

brakes if your doing disk rear ditch the stock valve for sure . get the 1 built with a inline rear adjustable valve . and if still running load senser valve in rear to axle bypass it . last depending on size of rear stuff maybe a bigger master is needed ..

i would like to try it some day but stock 1985 k30 13" x 3.5 shoe rear master is 33.3375mm bore disc/drum and a 1998 c3500HD only with hydroboost is disc/disc and 40mm bore also swaps you to a aluminum unit with plastic tank so its cleaner / less mess / see fluid level . and the c3500HD trucks used our dana 60 size calipers front and rear on them from the factory .i wish someone made a bracket kit for the 14ff rear to swap on these calipers and then i would try this combo .
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Tough part about the miss is it seems to be intermittent at idle and dead under load while driving. So far all the ss header tubes are the same shade of blue so there is in fact combustion I just don't know why it's missing. Tomorrow first think I'm pulling the plugs in hopes of seeing a fouled pug at this point.

As for the brakes, the load sensor has been removed. There has never been a prop valve but I hope the master cylinder is large enough. It's really a pedal height thing. It's kinda low and not as soft as before.
 
sweetk30 said:
that is the stock unit .

front in and Tee out to both fronts 100% flow/pressure
rear in is biased to feed the rear . some guys pull the end and remove the guts . then later have to install a rear adjustable valve to limit on how fast the rear work .
or i just did this one https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3906/overview/ and installed here starts post #275 https://ck5.com/forums/threads/budget-beater-holding-pattern-for-now.332759/page-14
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Yea i saw how you did that, I would have to move it of course bc of my shift cable bracket. Does the rear have to flow better? I would think so having those large 3/4 ton calipers back there. I still don't see how this would help pedal height though.
 
That has bad parking thread written all over it
 
I have an '83 K5 diesel with hydroboost. I have 3/4 ton calipers up front and half ton calipers out back. I'm running a summit disc/disc prop valve in place of the stock one on the crossmember and a jegs manual prop valve inline with the rear curcuit up by the master. I have an '83 P30 disc/disc diesel hydroboost master cylinder. It has a larger piston bore. I also have stainless brake hoses. My pedal is firm and high. Brakes work awesome. Rear prop valve goes 10 turns all the way off and I run it at 8 turns out to keep the rear from locking up and going in circles on wet or icy roads.
 
Truckman4life said:
I have an '83 K5 diesel with hydroboost. I have 3/4 ton calipers up front and half ton calipers out back. I'm running a summit disc/disc prop valve in place of the stock one on the crossmember and a jegs manual prop valve inline with the rear curcuit up by the master. I have an '83 P30 disc/disc diesel hydroboost master cylinder. It has a larger piston bore. I also have stainless brake hoses. My pedal is firm and high. Brakes work awesome. Rear prop valve goes 10 turns all the way off and I run it at 8 turns out to keep the rear from locking up and going in circles on wet or icy roads.
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I think I saved the part number from your build on the prop valve, the truck brakes surprisingly even in its current state. 3/4ton calipers on 11" out back ant the front are stock with new pads and callipers.
 
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