CK5
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I have a set of 36X13.50X16 Interco bias ply Swampers on my truck (16X10 rims). I use balancing beads on these tires, and the balancing beads work pretty good. These bias ply tires still handle wildly sometimes in the street on bad roads, and I have to drive it two fisted when that happens.

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I have a set of 36X13.50X16 Interco bias ply Swampers on my truck (16X10 rims). I use balancing beads on these tires, and the balancing beads work pretty good. These bias ply tires still handle wildly sometimes in the street on bad roads, and I have to drive it two fisted when that happens.

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Yea that's why I'm trying to get away from the bias plys. I know they're better off road often but this truck will likely see more road travel
 
Swapped pin out location on the o2 pigtails today with black to tan that's supposed to be dark green according to the schematic. Still no activity in the o2s. I'm really disgusted with this harness and pcm. Regardless if this is something I'm equipped to diagnose, it Not what I payed for!

The Allison harness is butchered and it didn't even need modification. I've got it partially working but the 4wl circuit table needs figured.

The knock sensors were plugged fora late model camaro/Ls style :ordered the correct plugs ans swapped myself.

I was sent a schematic to double check the o2 circuit (again not my ****ing job)
After swapping grounds in the plug ends the illumination is back within 15 miles. The numbered location at the "red" pcm connector is completely wrong as far as I can tell.
I'm also told the PCM could be bad as they refurbish old units but they are not tested.

I understand this is intricate work and not all standard but I have not ordered much out of the ordinary and if I were building this truck for a customer I would have lost my ass months ago!

Sorry for the rant but it's Saturday and I a holiday so I can't call them yet and I'm gonna be pissed if I need to pull this entire harness back off.
 
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So here's my idea for a rear parking brake. I won't call it an emergency brake as it sistered on to the current fluid brake.

I sourced this drift brake locally for about 25$ and I'm going to mount it inside the passenger frame rail. Everything here should get me spliced into the rear line after I put some ends on the old line. The factory foot pedal will be the locking mechanism.

The factory parking brake cable should be plenty long to cross over and be terminated in a clevis to pin to the drift brake handle. I'll need to fab up a bracket to bulkhead the cable and also a couple bulkhead tabs for the brake hose adapters.

I'll also be swapping this new 4 wheel disc prop valve for the old drum unit in hopes for a better pedal feel and performance.

Should be pretty Strait forward...

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how do you plan to keep the fluid from pushing back up threw the trucks main master ? ? ? :popcorn::whistle:

or does the drift brake master do this already ?
 
The master should do this already. It designed to go online but a good point
Oh I see. So instead of just being teed into the rear brake circuit it goes inline with it so when the regular service brakes are depressed it allows fluid to the rear brakes but when you operate just the drift brake handle then it basically has a one-way check valve that does not allow fluid to flow up towards the master and only downstream to the rear brakes. Sounds like a good idea. I was thinking of doing something similar with a mico lock inline and just depress the brakes to apply the rears and then activate the lock to hold pressure in the rear calipers.
 
Oh I see. So instead of just being teed into the rear brake circuit it goes inline with it so when the regular service brakes are depressed it allows fluid to the rear brakes but when you operate just the drift brake handle then it basically has a one-way check valve that does not allow fluid to flow up towards the master and only downstream to the rear brakes. Sounds like a good idea. I was thinking of doing something similar with a mico lock inline and just depress the brakes to apply the rears and then activate the lock to hold pressure in the rear calipers.
Like a line lock, that's where I started with this idea but I like the idea of retaining my park brake
 
So some headway and possible good news on the o2s. Ohmed out all the o2 sensors and traced them back to their correct pin out locations. All good there, but there are some missing. Three to be exact. There's also a water temp in one of the places (c1/63) which will be moved to c1/41. Turns out there's two ways to wire the o2s and I have a combo of the two:confused:
So they have three pins and pigtails on their way to me and I'll have to splice them into the tan wire currently in c1/26:cool:

So I had some daylight left I tore into the steering column and fixed the horn, by flipping the pin so it was long enough to reach the contact and installed the gm high beam do hickey. Boom high beams!

Hint: put the part on the column cover as shown then slide the larger housing back over the shaft interlocking with the stalk linkage cover.


After this I decided to fix the alignment on the steering wheel itself by indexing the shaft at the rag joint. A good day all n all I can't wait to put the ecm back in I hope it works!

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Maybe I should get one like that. More bed space and force to get a little more selective about what I'm carrying.
 
So the pigtails came in this week. I had to move the black wire from c1/63 to c1/41. Added tan pigtails to 25,26,28 and 63.thes were spliced into the other two tan wires that are all together on the schematic.

Bank one sensor one/o2 works!

Bank two sensor one/o2 does not (p0134)

New code p0650 mil control circuit open.

It does seem to run better.

I'm over it.

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Thanks Rob, @ZooMad75 for proper schematics. Unfortunately I think I'm dragging out the entire harness and sending it back. I've now had to butcher every end of this harness from trans to knock sensors and now the ecm. Not what I payed for.
 

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