Missed it - what ecm is this?
CK5
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Yank Tank Molotov/3+3, 454/magnum/Allison
- Thread starter SpeedlabDan
- Start date
'84 K30 Silverado "big Dooley"
Not sure exactly it's the factory Delphi from the 8.1L. I'm mailing it back next week.
Who's harness was this again?
No problem on the schematic, happy it helped you.
No problem on the schematic, happy it helped you.
Howell efi, I was happy with it up front but fitment was an issue, they removed the nsbu 7 pin from the trans harness when they merged them (for what I do not know) the knock wires were too short and for a '99 camaro and now the o2 wiring is part the old way they do it and part the new way so I had to cut into a new harness again to fudge it up with butt connections.
Now I'm sending the ecm/pcm back to Arizona on my dime to fix it and I still have this butchered harness. Don't get me wrong the guys were super cool about helping me and spending time diagnosing with me but from a point of business this is not what I've paid for at all.
i would tell them this is the service you sold me . now its never been correct and my harness is crap with all the mix-n-match / splices / rework .
i want this correct or my money back and if we stay together i want a clean harness as this is what i started with when we started our deal .
i want this correct or my money back and if we stay together i want a clean harness as this is what i started with when we started our deal .
Well I have a hunch it's part the harness so when I get the PCM back if it doesn't work I may go that route. I typically don't like making waves and I also don't want to tare the whole harness back out.
I'm not sure about posting this in your thread, but I just got a call from Troy at Howell EFI. He wanted to see if I ever got anything figured out on my 350 last fall. I had him look at a data-log which didn't give him any indication of problems. I didn't purchase anything.
I was surprised that he called to check, even if it has been about 6 months.
I was just thinking that maybe he would like to know if he put out a product with a problem, so that he could try to correct it.
I didn't know if you had called him or tried to see what they say.
I was surprised that he called to check, even if it has been about 6 months.
I was just thinking that maybe he would like to know if he put out a product with a problem, so that he could try to correct it.
I didn't know if you had called him or tried to see what they say.
I've been on the phone with him back n forth. I feel like I am bein a pain in the ass but I did pay for a product that I did not get after all. Last trip out I did 180 miles with no check engine light but the dash is out as I think I knocked something loos messing with the buss bar grounds the day before. I hope it's good now and I'll be sure to let him know if it is. I'm supposed to send the PCM back to be reworked for the weird illumination issues.
Pulled the entire harness back out 
Spoke on the phone and explained I've got too much time into diagnostic and the more I touch it with improper tooling the more butchered it becomes. I need this to be clean, organized and reliable with all the proper parts attached.
Spoke on the phone and explained I've got too much time into diagnostic and the more I touch it with improper tooling the more butchered it becomes. I need this to be clean, organized and reliable with all the proper parts attached.
i fell your pain brother
Hope it works when I get it back
Ok so the harness is back in. Took the opportunity to route some things a little differently. Was charged 50$ to repair the coolant wire I didn't know was broke... The knock sensor wire and starter signal wire were clad in better heat shielding. The vss was cleaned up. Hopefully the o2s are fully operational now. Seems to run the same.
Dakota dash is still not seeing temp, tach, prindle, or vss... I suspect the bim box my have capped out on me... Wtf I'm goin cruisin
Dakota dash is still not seeing temp, tach, prindle, or vss... I suspect the bim box my have capped out on me... Wtf I'm goin cruisin
Keepin it light this memorial day. Replaced the dash band with a slightly better junk yard replacement that I still need a pack of Rollin papers to keep the vent still haha also put new felt and outer window seal on the driver door. Was gonna do the motor but turns out the regulator is in bad shape missing wheels etc so I'll have to get a regulator and rnr the entire. Felts were easier than expected with some wd40
Reached out to dakota digital for some tips as to why my bim isn't powering up and I'm expecting the power to come from the "can" port but it comes from the dakota control box in the other direction.
It wasn't this issue but it did lead to me finding one of the ports (the big 8pin) for the dash was torn from the board. Guess I got a little rough with it while pulling the dash panel down numerous times.
Just 8 little pins sticking out so I carefully pushed the plug back onto them and I have everything but tach on the test run so I'll have to carefully remove it again and check the tach source wire.
It wasn't this issue but it did lead to me finding one of the ports (the big 8pin) for the dash was torn from the board. Guess I got a little rough with it while pulling the dash panel down numerous times.
Just 8 little pins sticking out so I carefully pushed the plug back onto them and I have everything but tach on the test run so I'll have to carefully remove it again and check the tach source wire.
No update just some cool shots from my buddy's iPhone after ridin, gotcha!
I probably missed it but did you get your wire harness and trans issues all sorted out?
Yea the trans is good since I got the harness back for 2wd hi at least. I still have to figure out how to switch a ground for both low ranges to run a different map.
The only issues I have now are popping during hard acceleration. I suspect there's a small hole in one of the primary header tubes I have to weld up and clearance at the frame rail. I'm also going to ad a second fuel pump in line to assure I'm getting proper volume. Haven't had much time lately with work but I hope to do this soon and tie up some interior issues /wiring/driver door hinge/regulator as well.
No pics but I spent the entire day reinflating the passenger side saddle tank that I mistakenly plugged the return and Vent on. I also installed the tank puncture guard/skids or whatever ya call em.
I also tried to decipher our wonderful gm wiring schematics to find the dimmer switch and a running light circuit. I now have a tach and an auto dimming dash. Good bc that dash is bright! I'll have to try the brown wire off the light switch harness for an actual dimmer.
Also ordered Manifold gaskets so I can shape and weld the primary header tube that I suspect is reversing oxygen and causing the efi to dump fuel and pop under hard acceleration via the o2 sensor.
And I ordered some misc. Ac vents and ducting and a courtesy lamp kit from lmc as mine are missing, a cigarette lighter housing, seat covers, and molded carpets as well as knock off dyno mat to quiet things down. New Poly mud flaps are also on the way as the rubber ones like to climb up on the tires after dtrucks pass me on the high way and it's annoying me. That's why they're tied back
I also tried to decipher our wonderful gm wiring schematics to find the dimmer switch and a running light circuit. I now have a tach and an auto dimming dash. Good bc that dash is bright! I'll have to try the brown wire off the light switch harness for an actual dimmer.
Also ordered Manifold gaskets so I can shape and weld the primary header tube that I suspect is reversing oxygen and causing the efi to dump fuel and pop under hard acceleration via the o2 sensor.
And I ordered some misc. Ac vents and ducting and a courtesy lamp kit from lmc as mine are missing, a cigarette lighter housing, seat covers, and molded carpets as well as knock off dyno mat to quiet things down. New Poly mud flaps are also on the way as the rubber ones like to climb up on the tires after dtrucks pass me on the high way and it's annoying me. That's why they're tied back
Trying to figure out if I can lose the 3"-4" blocks from the rear leafs with the 38.5x11x16 boggers. I'd probably have to invest in some 3" leafs up front as I estimate they are 6". I really don't want to lunch the fenders but unfortunately I'll probably lose the boggers for a radial 35x10.5 tsl ssr swamper soon so it'll also ease fitments but not soon
So I love duplicolor stuff so I thought I'd try this. Wire cup wheeled the only rust on this truck other than the driver rocker. The previous carpet was saturated and the surface was pretty rusty but solid. Next step I can roll in the sound mat
