Maybe I’ll try running it without the alternator tomorrow
CK5
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Yank Tank Molotov/3+3, 454/magnum/Allison
- Thread starter SpeedlabDan
- Start date
'84 K30 Silverado "big Dooley"
I don't recommend the sniper, it still puts the ECU in the TB to compete with FiTech. I recommend to upgrade to the Terminator X Stealth with Holley TBI, or if you want to stay with less expensive model the FAST EZ EFI can still work well with a separate ECU and TBI.
Otherwise its MPFI for the win, PF4 or Terminator X.
You don't need a different pump for a carb, just a bypass regulator for carb pressures with a large enough return line to turn it down that far.
Yea I have a EFI pump on the blazer with a bypass bc I didn’t want to change the aeromotive pump in the tank but I have to drop the tank anyway to fix or diagnose the sender issue
So today I figured I’d unplug the alternator exciter wire and tho it still glitches out it’s better. I did do this while it’s running so it seems the regulator was already triggered and the alternator is still charging. However the voltage has dropped at the guage to a more normal 13. The guage was showing over 14 but I was thinking maybe it was just the Dakota guage reading high. I’m going to unplug the battery and start over without the trigger wire plugged
Not charging it still does the same thing at high rpm just not as bad. I gotta start yelling stuff apart I guess
Was it Fitech that had problems with the injector plugs in the throttle body or am I thinking of the Sniper? Not sure if it has anything to do with your issue but I remember one of them having a crappy connector at the injectors.
Not sure but fuel delivery seems fine
So this problem is living rent free in my head every day now, I think I need to start disconnecting wires that go to the factory fuse block etc There’s a chance when I “cleaned everything up I may have hooked up some things to the buss bar that may be back feeding the ignition circuit. If that’s even possible 
there’s no evident power draw and everything turns off properly. There’s still a possibility of a short to ground as I’ve seen my brake controller for the trailer harness flash “c” for connected when nothing is connected. I don’t necessarily think it’s the fitech as it works fine until it’s reved so maybe the tach wire is a problem? Not sure if a resistor can be added to that. But I can run a tach out wire from the Dakota control box to the fitech if that may insulate it. The Dakota does not seem to have trouble with the signal but maybe they aren’t playing well on the same circuit
there’s no evident power draw and everything turns off properly. There’s still a possibility of a short to ground as I’ve seen my brake controller for the trailer harness flash “c” for connected when nothing is connected. I don’t necessarily think it’s the fitech as it works fine until it’s reved so maybe the tach wire is a problem? Not sure if a resistor can be added to that. But I can run a tach out wire from the Dakota control box to the fitech if that may insulate it. The Dakota does not seem to have trouble with the signal but maybe they aren’t playing well on the same circuit
Yes, that is a well known Sniper issue. For what it's worth, the new Sniper 2 is supposed to have that eliminated.
Yeah, for anyone that watches YouTube videos, there's that guy in PA that had a video showing the problems with his Sniper connectors, then had a video later showing the improved Sniper 2 setup. NoNonsenseKnowHow is his channel I believe. Pretty cool guy with interesting automotive and mechanical videos.
Thats where I saw it. Light bulb! I like him.
Got new fans bc one of the el cheapo fans quit boy these things are spendy.
While at it I called fitech and according to them it seems like a grounding issue to the tb itself. Solution is a ground from the tb to the battery.
Also need to check the connection points in the plug given the age and amount of times it’s been installed. Also tested all the 8 connections on the buss bar. Most draw is .53v between the pink distributed feed and ground. Not sure why I’m seeing it there but it’s low. No it’s not a resistor wire.
boy these things are spendy.While at it I called fitech and according to them it seems like a grounding issue to the tb itself. Solution is a ground from the tb to the battery.
Also need to check the connection points in the plug given the age and amount of times it’s been installed. Also tested all the 8 connections on the buss bar. Most draw is .53v between the pink distributed feed and ground. Not sure why I’m seeing it there but it’s low. No it’s not a resistor wire.
I'd be tempted to run a ground wire from one of the back TB studs to the ground strap on the back of the head. Then a good ground wire from the battery to the frame. I'm assuming you have a ground strap from the back of the head to the frame. That should give you a pretty good ground path back to the battery without having it stand out like a sore thumb.
Well the engine is grounded via battery size cable to the frame. I also ran a ground wire from one of the intake lugs to the grounding buss bar at the fire wall. That buss bar grinds to the firewall and is the junction for all the engine bay grounds. I guess what’s stumping me as well is that I have this reading at the coil feed with key off. But I haven’t changed anything in the column
My comment was a thought if you wanted to humor FiTech on grounding the throttle body to the battery.
I'm afraid I don't have an answer on the voltage at the coil with ignition off.
I'm afraid I don't have an answer on the voltage at the coil with ignition off.
Gotta be a short somewhere. Possibly from dirt/corrosion w/ it being low.
Made it around a country block a few times once I realized it was in low through the magnum
So!, I had to add and move some grounds pertaining to the fitech and that runs great again!
New problem…. The oil dip stick pukes pretty bad……
So!, I had to add and move some grounds pertaining to the fitech and that runs great again!
New problem…. The oil dip stick pukes pretty bad……
Is that blowby? pcv plugged?
It leaked before I put a new factory dip tube but the pan bug is wallowed out so I jammed it in there with some tape and o rings but evidently it’s worse now
