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Yank Tank Molotov/3+3, 454/magnum/Allison

'84 K30 Silverado "big Dooley"
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So here’s a strange one. Evidently whenever I have the battery hooked up through the trailer the truck doesn’t shut off. It seems I have the battery power wire for the 7pin connected to an ignition circuit to back feed. I have to get out and unplug the trailer to shut down:rotfl::haha:

I should stop building trucks…

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Wes Harden said:
Diode will fix that
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I was thinking that but I’ve never actually worked with diodes and don’t know where to start I was thinking I could also set up the trailer like my camper battery with the smart switch and put it on the battery circuit. If I do that it will cut off the trailer battery before it runs down the truck battery.
 
Solder diode into trailer battery wiring. Can be either side, but I would do truck, since other trailers with batteries might have same effect.
Diode are directional, same principle as a fluid check valve.
Most multimeter have a diode check, or simply use ohm meter to test direction.
Install with continuity from truck to trailer
 
The diode has a mark on one end that's the negative direction. Electricity flows from + to -, so install a diode in your trailer plugin wiring so it can't flow back up the positive back into the truck. It will need supported so it doesn't break over time from flex.
 
Traded my ol gurl for this pos lol I have my regrets but I need to do some heavy stuff I’ll get another tractor eventually. Really can’t wait to get proper tires on the rig but with 10kgvw and no trailer brake the truck didn’t flinch. Trans never went over 120 so I’m starting to think the 30 row cooler is a little much without the radiator pass through.

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I was on the struggle bus today with the humidity and black fly season but I made some stuff work with the new Moroso pan on the gen5/6 big block. I was glad to see how smooth the cylinders were and the bearings felt perfect I wish I knew how many hours were actually on the 2010 Gm performance 7.4L.
I used a melling high volume pump, hardened shaft and I had a pickup from a gen/IV that I had to cut all apart and re-engineer. This pan uses a compression fitting for the dip stick which was the original reason I did the pan. The salt ate the dip stick collar off and there was nothing to seal leaving my undercarriage bathed in oil. This pan also has the hinged trap door like the hamburgers pan on my sbc in the k5 as well as a windage mesh tray. Factory mains had studs for a factory windage/splash tray that had to be cut off.

Next up I gotta drop the tank and put a new sender in for whatever reason the guage hasn’t worked since I swapped the body. I suspect a ground issue as well. I also acquired a crew cab set of stainless “vent shades” for the windows

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not much for pictures but I put my stainless vent visors on and dropped the tank. Two things. Upon testing the sender that mysteriously stopped working. Second the Dakota dash control box I had added an extry wire to the fuel signal that it wasn’t supposed to have. Now I have two working fuel gauges!
No update on my rear wheels tho….

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Scored some really nice period correct badges for my 73 front clip. Still waiting on my mf rear wheels. Haven’t dug back in yet with the pole barn project goin on.
However my widows wouldn’t go up so I tore into the door to no avail before the sun went down at 4pm…
So eff it I’ll put it back in the pole barn. Jam it in park and try the windows one moar time… you got it they went back up:surepal:

I’ve been collecting steering column parts with the impending rebuild becoming more evident every time I get in the truck. Funny thing is the tilt is still tight when that’s usually the first part to go. Anyways, I’m getting pretty good with the columns but I’ll be pulling this one bc I may replace the lower housing as the bearing retainer has rotted almost completely

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Been sick af all week but I managed to pick up my wheels from powder n mount the tires yesterday. Got out it the shop to fart around and move my mill and a bunch of other chit from the garage. I also had the diamond plate bed caps and the budd wheels that are rings done in wet black powder as well. The porosity from the chitty welds this guy did showed up in a major way so they aren’t perfect and I drove the dodge captive washer lug nuts over the center cap flanges to complete the look I was goin for.

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One of the few good connections I have in the auto restoration world is a good friend at American Autowire in Belmawr NJ.

My window switch harness crumbled to pieces so I’ll splice in a restoration quality pigtail Craig made up for me in correct locations with period wire and original gm dies!
Now I just have to track down the issues in the column/accessory circuit to find some switch issues.

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sweetk30 said:
Sounds like i got a nice kit for my truck then . . Glad he could help out for sure .
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American autowire bought all the old dies from gm and they use the correct wire and all the ends. I’m not sure what the wire is called. They have more Chevy truck stuff coming out soon too. They’re expanding their catalog.
 
They still don’t deal with my 91 k30 fuse block either but it’s nice to know there will be more availability other than old junk yard picks
 
Jeggs mini starter I have has too big a gear so I’ll try the stock 8.1 stater with sae bolts today. Too bad I had to bend the dip stick tube before bc if I can’t straighten it out the new ones are $90-120!:eek1:
 
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