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79 K5 Prerunner "Lucy"

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Well dammit It wont start.. I dunno why?? I checked the mag pickup and its good, I have a good ground to the engine and chassis and the ignition box. I do not for some reason have power to the coil from the ignition box and based on their manual I should see a blink when the engine is running. I do not. I even checked it with my MSD dizzy and I could get zero blinking.. But my meter will go up and down like it should if I rotate the dizzy shaft, it does the same on both. WTF.... I checked the connections and I have continuity on all the cables I made going from the dizzy to the box.. so I am going to research this more...
 
As far as main power fusing I’ve used a 175amp Mega fuse in both my ‘78 and my F150. Works well and is easy to add onto if need be. And this way only about 6” of wire between the battery and main fuse is the only un-fused circuit in the truck.


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78K30 said:
As far as main power fusing I’ve used a 175amp Mega fuse in both my ‘78 and my F150. Works well and is easy to add onto if need be. And this way only about 6” of wire between the battery and main fuse is the only un-fused circuit in the truck.


View attachment 262402
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i like that! simple and compact.
So I went ahead and put the module back in just to find out I potentially do not have power at the primary source on the box??? I guess the box will power up with the ignition source but will not function.. Glad that was in the troubleshooting notes. Just rewired the damn thing.. FML
 
annnd just my luck the unit has to be bad. I double checked the connections, it has power on both inputs like it requires, I tried the HEI module to trigger through the points input and it still would not light. So back to good ol HEI..
 
Ignition boxes are the worst. So sensitive and when they fail they leave you stranded. Throw that crap in the garbage and run a regular distributor.
 
It sounds real good for a second and then it sounds like its changing and about to die, so either fuel or timing is changing if the throttle isn't? Unless its real cold, was it warmed up? Is the timing stable? If the timing is stable and the engine is warm I'd be adjusting the carb and monitoring fuel pressure.
 
sreidmx said:
annnd just my luck the unit has to be bad. I double checked the connections, it has power on both inputs like it requires, I tried the HEI module to trigger through the points input and it still would not light. So back to good ol HEI..
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Does it have power during cranking? There are a lot of circuits that have power with the key on but turn off when you are cranking the starter. You may need to double check it still has power to 12V on wire while you are cranking the engine over if you haven't already.
 
I put it in gear on that video and yea the timing is stable. I also verified that I have power on the circuit while cranking
 
sreidmx said:
I put it in gear on that video and yea the timing is stable. I also verified that I have power on the circuit while cranking
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Is that a new or used ignition box?

What is your converter?

I think the engine sounds much better than before, sounds real good when stable.

If its dropping too much in gear then you need more timing, or A/F adjustment, vacuum leak, or your converter is too tight for your cam.

I like to tune the idle fuel screws for the most vacuum at idle, that seems to produce the least drop in RPM when its in gear. But you may have to readjust the idle air screw at the same time because you have to maintain the same RPM. Obviously higher RPM would produce more vacuum. I adjust them all up or down a 1/4 turn at a time, readjust the RPM if needed, and then check the vacuum and repeat until its correct.

I think its sounding good, I want to see another dune jumping video instead of another idle video! :waytogo:
 
It’s got 38 now at idle isn’t that plenty? It’s locked out.
I’ll play more with it, the converter is 2500 or so I was told.
I’m going to put a bung on here to see what the afr is. It is rich smelling st idle, and before the cam etc I knew the idle circuit was not setup at all for a mild motor.
I need to check and see what my idle air bleeds are and the idle feed restrictor.
 
sreidmx said:
It’s got 38 now at idle isn’t that plenty? It’s locked out.
I’ll play more with it, the converter is 2500 or so I was told.
I’m going to put a bung on here to see what the afr is. It is rich smelling st idle, and before the cam etc I knew the idle circuit was not setup at all for a mild motor.
I need to check and see what my idle air bleeds are and the idle feed restrictor.
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If its locked at 38 with an 11" converter then I'd consider that set and play with the carb then. I'm sure you'll get it dialed in. It sounds way more free like it is supposed to so I think you fixed the issues.
 
folkenheath said:
If its locked at 38 with an 11" converter then I'd consider that set and play with the carb then. I'm sure you'll get it dialed in. It sounds way more free like it is supposed to so I think you fixed the issues.
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It sounds lean to me. It can be really difficult to make a big cam tight converter setup to idle decent in gear, but it can be done.
Is your carb set up with 4 corner idle screws?
Are the primary and secondary throttle plates opened up the same at idle?
 
bigblock72 said:
It sounds lean to me. It can be really difficult to make a big cam tight converter setup to idle decent in gear, but it can be done.
Is your carb set up with 4 corner idle screws?
Are the primary and secondary throttle plates opened up the same at idle?
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I think you are on the right track getting the carb dialed in, it may want more fuel to idle more consistent, but I would consider it a mild cam(230@050), it shouldn't need anything out of the ordinary to idle just fine.
 
I’ll play with it. Its a mystery right now what the air fuel actually is.. I’m curious to see.
 
Dammit this friggen pump is bad.. best it could muster was 4.5 psi from a gas can.. wtf I cannot win.. Holley blue pump it is.. so over screwing with this.
 
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