No more shocks brackets after 2 hours of cutting and grinding..
CK5
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79 K5 Prerunner "Lucy"
- Thread starter sreidmx
- Start date
No more shocks brackets after 2 hours of cutting and grinding..
Mocked up the brackets and got a rally rough idea what needs to go where.
Ground on the driveshaft till I was happy with the clearances.
Here you can see the interferences that I got rid of. Basically looked at a bunch of cv yoke pics online and copied them. Now I get 30 degrees of slope and the shaft has no bind. I didn't want to take it apart to go further mainly because I think it would reduce strength. I only reduced the rough edges and rounded corners and didn't remove anything structural. The cv inner is the limit cause the inside portion is like a bridge and rubs the ujoint rubber shoulders, I figured that was enough and it gained me around 4 inches more droop travel so that puts me in the 17-18 range without sacrificing anything.
Killer Whale REV 2.0
So I mounted this up with a control arm pivot directly next to the tcase flange. I wanted to see the driveline angles and how much slip I was encountering.
I am going to make links 50 inches I think because the amount of caster change is rediculous somethin like 22 degrees total from top to bottom.
With a 50 inch arm it's lower like 16 degrees. For reference a ford solid axle has 36 arms stock..
So I mounted this up with a control arm pivot directly next to the tcase flange. I wanted to see the driveline angles and how much slip I was encountering.
I am going to make links 50 inches I think because the amount of caster change is rediculous somethin like 22 degrees total from top to bottom.
With a 50 inch arm it's lower like 16 degrees. For reference a ford solid axle has 36 arms stock..
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Is the goal go fast or rocks? 50" is fine as long as the arms are level at ride height. You may want to move the upper link in the radius arm. Could be the picture though, as it looks to be in the center. Even at .25 wall you will be bending it in the center as the upper link transfers all the wrap(twisting) to that one spot. I would make the uppers shorter., way shorter.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Looking good on mock up!
Go fast purely no rock crawling if I can avoid it. And with the angle the
Longer the better, I'll probally plate the upper to the lower well see, it may end up like a prerunner looking radius arm, like this.
Longer the better, I'll probally plate the upper to the lower well see, it may end up like a prerunner looking radius arm, like this.
Got my joint order in! So stoked on these parts
Ruff stuff did a great job packaging them and labeling everything. Money well spent.
Anyone have an idea how I should spec my coils? I am finding bronco coils are 400in lbs and Cherokee coils are in the 240in lb range, same length..
Id go with the deaver bronco coils personally.
That's what is in nates blazer. They seem to work pretty good up front. And they are cheap at around $200 a pair IIRC.
Nate who? Can I see this blazer?
I found it lol I sent him a message hope he gets back to me..
So for high speed stuff personally I would build those arms really really strong. I would extend both upper and lower parts out all the way and brace in between them. I would also drop the bracket off the frame. Goal being as level as possible at ride height. I realize you can't drop em too much but I would come down a couple inches at least.
Bronco coils from Jeffs Bronco graveyard the super flex ones are 300 in lbs. I have used them on a number of rigs.
I am not a fan of radius arms in high speed stuff but they can work.
But sometimes they do this
And they result in this
build em STRONG
Bronco coils from Jeffs Bronco graveyard the super flex ones are 300 in lbs. I have used them on a number of rigs.
I am not a fan of radius arms in high speed stuff but they can work.
But sometimes they do this
And they result in this
build em STRONG
Wow that was a bad day there... blazing what would you build for links instead of rad arms? Thanks for the input I'll definitely build them as strong as I can fit.
A 3 link will out perform radius arms in every way.
Even if the upper is offset? What about a parallel style four link?
As you can see I made the arms as long as I could. These are 48 inches from center of axle tube to the pivot, the actual arms are 43 3/8.
As expected there was significant plunge throughout the travel, but the driveshaft still rotatated freely and has some slip left but it is at its max that I am comfortable with. Even at full droop were still in the positive caster range which was a huge deal, it only gains and looses 8-10 degrees so at ride height I set it at 5-7 and bumped it gains to 10 and droop has 2-3 still. I am ok with that.
I am finding there is a lot of give and take with this.. It's amazing how big and small changes affect things. I still may attempt at 3 or 4 link to see what that does to the caster and pinion angles.
As you can see I made the arms as long as I could. These are 48 inches from center of axle tube to the pivot, the actual arms are 43 3/8.
As expected there was significant plunge throughout the travel, but the driveshaft still rotatated freely and has some slip left but it is at its max that I am comfortable with. Even at full droop were still in the positive caster range which was a huge deal, it only gains and looses 8-10 degrees so at ride height I set it at 5-7 and bumped it gains to 10 and droop has 2-3 still. I am ok with that.
I am finding there is a lot of give and take with this.. It's amazing how big and small changes affect things. I still may attempt at 3 or 4 link to see what that does to the caster and pinion angles.
Parallel is a good solution but usually means either huge drop brackets to keep arms longer or shorter arms to keep the brackets minimal height.
I am not really worried about ground clearance at this point, the transfer case hangs down 6 inches below the frame so as long as I stay around that I am ok.
