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79 K5 Prerunner "Lucy"

Overview Gallery Discussion
jkroberts said:
The trophy trucks run about 35 psi I think... By the time they get to the pit and change the tire it's around 40-45psi
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It was mid 20 to high 20s last Race we had. High psi usually indicates high speed section. And they change it based on the destination section, so sandy would be 23-25 and lakebed would be up to 28 cold psi
 
Nope unfortunately she’s been sidelined. I did start her a few weeks ago and let her run for 15 mins. That rear end is smoked still..
 
Sup noobs, just here to inform you that I am already winning MPS..
Pulled a 430a and up at 9am
moved Lucy to front yard, moved 9.5sf along with her, dumped copious amounts of metal sand from “good diff” filled with e85, sloshed around and drained, flipped said drain pan on to garage floor(house is for sale and this adds resale value I’m sure. The aroma is amazing.
I then pulled the full floater with help from my buddy Drewwithpants and cut off all the old brackets. we then stabbed the ol 9.5 back into Ethel and set her down with no ubolts.. moving the hoist in the dirt was funnnn!!
Once that was completed we cleaned up the full float housing and pushed it to the side. We went on to remove the 9 inch and got it out pretty quick. Once that was done we cut the brackets we needed off and transferred them to the full floater. Hit them with a flap wheel and set the axle on the springs!! At this point I think it was 1-2am and I was near done.. we got the pinion angle set perfect! And the only gotcha was the slip yoke bottomed out and I had to trim off 1/4in so I had some breathing room.
We put the welds on it and setup the limit straps! I set her on 4 wheels and damn she looked good, been a minute since I got to see my truck and I was excited about it! we then started on the driver front knuckle and cut a bit too much but we’re saved by a google pic of using a Chevy backing plate and caliper for a ttb 8 lug swap where you click the caliper down one hole. That allowed it to fit and that’s where I stopped.. a little defeated but I had a plan. So now I just have to copy the cuts on the pass side and bolt it up. Rebleed the brakes and we’re off!
I’ll get some pics up ASAP!
 
First drive impressions are good, really good actually. It drives amazing for what it is. Of course it’s a loose noodle but it cruises 55 okay. I didn’t get on it to see how much power I lost gearing up.. but I’ll soon know!
 
sreidmx said:
First drive impressions are good, really good actually. It drives amazing for what it is. Of course it’s a loose noodle but it cruises 55 okay. I didn’t get on it to see how much power I lost gearing up.. but I’ll soon know!
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This is the k5 your talking about right? Gearing up is just temporary to get it moving?
 
Got quite a bit done on the old beast, figured since it was frigid temps I needed the ability to defrost the windshield and all I could think of was that I had a spare heater box and fan from Ethel so why not try to make it work.. well I didn’t know that an AC truck was going to present so much work but I made it happen in 3 days while it was raining.. all to not even need it :/
I hacked the old box in half, put a delete plate on the firewall around the heater hoses and wiring and somehow got it to burp the air out finally... but with a 160 thermostat the heat is barely there which makes me think I either need to go hotter on the stat or I need to route the core from the water pump and rad to the intake instead??
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It rained and rained some more.. I took breaks as I needed to because I didn’t wanna get sick. My garage is full of crap potentially for an impending move so I couldn’t pull into my garage.
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I got that sorted and the wiring for the turn signals finally working. these little deals are pretty bright, for 10$ I was shocked. 5A837A31-3A8C-42E8-BB8C-E96D63E4204D.jpeg

This might be a reposted picture but me and Drew roadtested it and that went well with no issues.
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then we made it out to JV for post turkey day fun, here’s Liam being a big strong boy!
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Sunday after the backdoor challenge Drew and I went on a 30 mile run with the wife and kid, Liam rode with Drew in his crawler and promptly passed out lol!!
All this while me and momma managed to find the softest chocolate cake like sand we could find, I said I could muscle it out but she was doubtful.. so Drew hooked up and provided a much needed assist.
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All in all it was a great trip, Drew made it up backdoor, I didn’t die in my truck nor did it stop working the whole weekend. My dad finally got to go for a ride and he was stoked which made me super happy since he gave me this truck. Kinda nice full circle there.. and the wife and kid had a blast too.
Drove it home with no issues.. I managed to bend a tie rod somewhere out there, I have found some cracking on the cage tie in from the engine bay that I have to brace and the fenders are trying to fall off.. coulda been way worse!!!

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sreidmx said:
I hacked the old box in half, put a delete plate on the firewall around the heater hoses and wiring and somehow got it to burp the air out finally... but with a 160 thermostat the heat is barely there which makes me think I either need to go hotter on the stat or I need to route the core from the water pump and rad to the intake instead?
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I have a 160 thermostat and although it's not really hot, I still get plenty of heat for the rare times I use it. 180 would give you more heat, but if you are taking the coolant from the cool suction side of the radiator then yes taking it from the intake to the heater core and then right back to the water pump suction will supply hotter coolant for heat without increasing engine temps. It can also act as a bypass for when the t-stat is shut. I recommend making sure its below the t-stat(plumb the coolant from the intake manifold directly, not from a port on the thermostat housing) or it may be trying to force coolant through when it is shut, effectively restricting the flow through the heater core. Just make sure you can shut the blower motor all the way off (some controls don't allow it, only low) or you will blowing heat when you don't want it. I don't know what years are off and what years are low only, or whether it was option related or not. I just know some have it and some don't.
 
folkenheath said:
I have a 160 thermostat and although it's not really hot, I still get plenty of heat for the rare times I use it. 180 would give you more heat, but if you are taking the coolant from the cool suction side of the radiator then yes taking it from the intake to the heater core and then right back to the water pump suction will supply hotter coolant for heat without increasing engine temps. It can also act as a bypass for when the t-stat is shut. I recommend making sure its below the t-stat(plumb the coolant from the intake manifold directly, not from a port on the thermostat housing) or it may be trying to force coolant through when it is shut, effectively restricting the flow through the heater core. Just make sure you can shut the blower motor all the way off (some controls don't allow it, only low) or you will blowing heat when you don't want it. I don't know what years are off and what years are low only, or whether it was option related or not. I just know some have it and some don't.
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Ok that makes sense, I don’t have a thermostat housing with the port but the manifold has the port on the backside for the bypass. I’ll move it and see. Would be a nice thing to have hot heat, and I have it on a three way switch for low and high and off..
 
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