CK5
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'91 K5 Four Wheel Camper

This is the build for my 1991 V1500 Blazer, AKA the K5.3. It started out life being sold to the U.S. Government with a 350 TBI/700r4/241 combo. 4 years with a 5.3/700r4 Combo and now moving to an 8.1L Vortec and NV4500 5-speed.
Been real happy with the thrush weldeds on mine as well, especially for the price difference from flowmasters

I took a pair that Larry took off the K10 a while ago to put on the 75 to ditch the blown out cherry bombs. Holy cow did it make that worn out 350 sound awesome. So when it came time to do the 91, I bought a new pair and had my exhuast guy put the system togther to my specs. Way cheaper than flows, but still sound excellent.
 
Not drumming, just reminding. :pimp:

Well, maybe I should remind you guys to put my name back in the hat next month. :deal: ;)

P.S. - you are a shoe-in this month. I'm pretty confident you'll be getting congrats in a few weeks.


She didn't make any more work for me. The owner wiped the truck down once we got it back to the shop. He won't let anybody else touch it.

I guess nobody noticed the short person pawing all over it. :haha:
 
I saw her over there. Outside of drooling, there wasn't much she could have done to it.

message recieved..
 
Another Video. This time getting closer to the top on the east side of the pass. Starts out in one of the many burn sections. The gopro is misleading on the steepness of the slope in most areas, but this was steep. Still getting used to the concept of wheeling with a slushbox, but I'm finding the low range of the 241 is a quick way to get close to the gear reduction I had with the 465 in the 75. Still find my left foot twitching for a missing man pedal though. Not to belittle the disabled but most amputees still report feeling the missing body part after it's gone. It's probably why my left foot is reaching for a pedal that isn't there.

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Oh, never reported the mileage for the run. 217 miles with 15.6 gallons of fuel used. Only 12 miles off road with most of that in Low range for a combined mileage of 13.92 mpg. That's not bad for the trail and round trip up and back. Speeds on the highway kept to 65 to the occasional blip to 70 when I didn't pay attention. My buddy's TJ just don't like going much more than 70 so I didn't want to leave him too far behind.
 
One more short video coming up the east side of the pass.

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Wow- Thanks to @bent72 for the nomination and for all that voted for me for GM of the Month. It's an honor to have my truck recognized like that. Giving credit where it's due is also needed. This truck wouldn't be where it is without @Larry . It's his craftsmanship that did the LS swap with an amazing attention to detail, driveability and serviceability. Plus the everything else he did for the axle swaps, lift and all the little things nobody knows about but me and him. He's got a lot of his own time in this build and did it to help me since I'm working so much nor have the space to do it at my place. I'm honored he's done so much as well as the distinction of GM of the Month.

There's more to come for sure. More ideas pop into my brain at the oddest time that I've got to see if I can get done to this rig with the same detail that Larry started it out with. While the project is at least roadworthy and trailworthy, it's nowhere near done.

Thanks again all!
 
I've thought about some handles too. I think you should get it figured out so I can copy it!

:D

After the last wheeling trip it was very apparent that some type of grab handles are needed to aid entry on both sides of the truck. I've thought about it and a couple of things came to mind. I'm not sure exactly what tipped me off to look in this direction, but I started looking at Jeeps. Gasp! I know, but you can't deny the metric ton of new parts coming out daily for the JK's and still for the TJ's. I found something in a google search for grab handles and most of the time you find the nylon webbing style that attaches to roll cage tubing with velcro around the tub itself. That isn't going to work in my case, but it got me to Rugged Ridge's website. Seems as if the 4dr JK's already have some type of grab handle over the rear door from the factory. I guess the style isn't enough "off-road" for some so Rugged Ridge came up with a bolt in solution with the same look with the velcro style. Pretty simple, nylon webbing, rubber handle with a filler inside the webbing and a couple of grommets to bolt through. Genius! Here is a solution that is infinitely adjustable to match up spacing to existing holes like I have over the passenger door or set up for the a-pillars or driver's side over the door.

Here's what I'm talking about.


I picked up a pack of 4 handles on Amazon for $9.00 plus shipping. Under $20 to my door. They aren't Rugged Ridge and might actually be patent infringed copies I unwittingly bought without knowing. I say this, because if you were watching any of the feeds that came from the SEMA show last week, 5 or 6 Chinese based vendors got busted at the show for knock-off products. Rugged Ridge's parent company noticed strikingly similar products in another vendors booth and got SEMA brass and the US attorney involved to shut it down mid-show. So I probably bought fakes and if they were the cheap ones I bought probably got yanked out of Amazon. Still, the real Rugged Ridge versions are only $9.99 for two. It's not a bad deal.

The roof mounting is going to be fairly straight forward. The A-pillars are going to be a little more challenge due to the shape. The basic idea I've kicked around with one of my techs at work is not using nut-serts since the glass is in the way for using the tool. The plan would be drilling holes near the pinch weld (where the weatherstrip pushes on). Since the cross section of the pillar is not just a box shape but actually comes to a point right at the pinch weld and the inner and outer edges are closest to each other and shouldn't require any sleeving to maintain strength. I haven't drilled a hole yet, but I may take my cordless drill to the boneyard and cut a hole just to make sure the theory is right before I add another hole to the truck.
 
That is a great idea, especially since you already have the provision with two bolts above the passengers door. Do the existing bolts pass through the China's Finest grab handle holes? Add one to the A-pilar is going to be a challenge with the windshield in there.
 
I've contemplated welding a plate there with some bolt holes drilled and tapped
 
Yes the bolts go through the grommets in the handles. Just need to put a washer on the bolt to capture the handle.

A plate on the both sides where I drill the holes isn't a bad idea to reinforce the pillar. Some 1/8" flat stock ought to do it. Considering my heft it's going to need all the support it can get.
 
Still find my left foot twitching for a missing man pedal though. Not to belittle the disabled but most amputees still report feeling the missing body part after it's gone. It's probably why my left foot is reaching for a pedal that isn't there.

I constantly find myself stomping my left foot against the floor when slowing down or starting vehicles with automatic transmissions. It just gets to be habit.

Martin
 
Got a little done today with the grab handles. Gotta love Southern Colorado weather in November. 70's this time of year is a gift and I'm going to use it.

I broke out my trusty drill and started to poke some more holes in the truck. As expected once I cut through the outside layer the inside layer is at a slightly different angle. I just had to make a slight adjustment to the drill to get a straight shot at the inner panel.

Figured out the spacing at 8 inches to give the strap a little droop and not be strung tight.


For some reinforcement, I cut some 1/8th inch flat stock, 3/4" wide. Used some grade 8 bolts with locknuts and large fender washers to secure the straps.


With the weatherstrip back in place the reinforcements are nicely hidden. Yes there's a dab of silicone on the bolts to limit moisture running down the a-pillar.


Same thing for the other side.


Passenger side upper was easy since there are already threaded holes here. I did change out the bolts with a little longer units and fender washers.


From the outside.


Both for the passenger side.


I tried them all out. Very strong. I can't feel any deflection when I put my weight on them to get in. I did decide not to put one over the top of the driver's door. I was a little uneasy with the nut serts taking the weight and ripping out the sheetmetal. I don't reach for that area to get in either. The a-pillar handle is the same type of reach as going for the steering wheel. All I need is a handle to grab to pull myself in and having a second one I won't use just isn't needed.

My tilt steering column thanked me after I got done. No more abuse.
 
My wife's dodge PU has handles built into the A pilar in a similar position as you have. Works well there. Looks strong and simple. :thumb:
 
My wife's dodge PU has handles built into the A pilar in a similar position as you have. Works well there. Looks strong and simple. :thumb:

I've noticed the Dodge grab handles and part of where I started thinking about it. GM started putting drivers side a-pillar handles on the 2500 and 3500 trucks with the latest body style change in 2015. For some odd reason, the 1500's still don't have one. They all have a Passenger side handle though. Since I see more Chevy's in the shop than Dodges it was subliminally stuck in my brain. The reach for the handle is only a couple of inches forward of the steering wheel. Just about the same height so I can hike my right leg in, grab the handle and "hop" in.

Cool! Did you get the wife to test them?
Did she give her approval ?

Not yet. She split to couponing with her niece and I wrapped up before she got back. I'm pretty sure she will approve. Still needs the step, but now she has something to grab to get in.
 
Very clean looking. Nice work.

Great idea! Looks good too! :waytogo:

Thanks guys! I really like how they came out. I was walking by the Blazer this morning and the washers holding the straps on the pillars really caught the sunlight and not in a good way. Too obvious. So I'm going to blow it apart and fog the washers with some satin black tractor paint. This way it all blends in with the handles. No shine.
 
Had a good work day in the Bigassgas garage over at Larry's place. Went over with the intention to troubleshoot/fix the rear brakes. Then if we had time we'd look at mounting the winch bumper Larry squirreled away some time ago. As odd as our luck is, the brakes turned out to be ok. The prop valve seems to be letting fluid back as we've got solid rear brakes. We did pressure bleed it just to make sure and it all came out ok.

So we moved on to the winch bumper. We had free time in the shop from both our wives so we needed to make use of it. Out of Larry's storage yard came a bumper that he picked up many moons ago. We drug it inside and mocked it up.


We used the finicky bumper jack (fitting right?) to hold the unit in place. Surprisingly for us the inside of the winch box matched up perfectly to the K5's frame rails for width. Despite the Warn sticker, to our knowledge this is not a Warn Bumper.


After making some templates out of cardboard we needed some steel. After calling in for reinforcements our buddy Bill and Andy picked up the steel and brought it over. We commenced to make sparks to cut out our brackets. We need to kick in for some better metal cutting equipment in the shop as we ate time with a die grinder, angle grinder and even a hacksaw. Andy and I had to secure the plate while Larry sliced.


After another run for cutoff wheels, Andy brought back his killer GMC burb. Specs are 6.2 oil burner with a Banks turbo, 6" all spring lift, 14bff/D44 8lug. The killer part is the exo cage. All DOM and built in sections that bolt on if damaged can be replaced one part at a time. Very trick.




After making the main brackets, we went ahead and ran some diagonal braces to the corners. This added some needed structure to the flat brackets. It's beefy. I think it came out sweet.



I can stand on the corner and it has zero deflection. Now to mount the Xd9000i into the bumper and wire it up.
 
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