CK5
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'91 K5 Four Wheel Camper

This is the build for my 1991 V1500 Blazer, AKA the K5.3. It started out life being sold to the U.S. Government with a 350 TBI/700r4/241 combo. 4 years with a 5.3/700r4 Combo and now moving to an 8.1L Vortec and NV4500 5-speed.
Collecting parts for installing solar to the camper. I've got other more important things to get done post swap, but just getting stuff ready.

This is my first time going into solar so I've been reading a bunch. I've already got a 240 watt panel I horsetraded for. Going to start out with a basic amazon special solar charge controller. Still need to get wiring for the panel and go bigger on the gauge of wire from the aux battery to the camper.

In our style of travel, the truck gets moved every day so my current setup has been fine even without having a huge deep cycle battery. The load overnight of the fridge, lights and charging stuff has not killed the battery. So it's not priority, but more of the electrical nerd in me wanting to try something new.

The bonus here is since I don't drive the truck every day, the time it sits at least the batteries will stay topped off without a need to put a charger on it. I said both batteries because I will change the existing 150amp continuous duty solenoid for an automated charge relay (ACR). This will allow the solar to keep the cranking battery up as well as the camper battery. When the engine is running, power will still go the other way and charge the camper battery from the alternator. 240 watts is probably way overkill for my plans but the panel didn't cost me anything.

I will add another power meter like the one I have to keep tabs on the solar input and the existing one will keep tabs on the power consumption.

I think it will be a fun project to set up. Plus if we end up staying in one spot for two nights I'll know the batteries will stay charged and not require running the engine to make power.

The 8.1 is getting an oil change today after work. It's got 600 miles on it since the swap and it's time to dump the dino sauce for some Mobil 1 synthetic.


What all are your power requirements/wants from the solar and batt setup? Added solar to my 5th wheel this summer and have been upgrading it as time goes on. Started out at 400 watts with an ACCO Power (brand) charge controller rated for up to 40 amps, maxed out at 15 amps being delivered to the batteries with that. Now at 1030 watts worth of solar panels and have seen up to 33 amps going to the batts. Mounted the panels flat to the roof so no need to play with them when moving but reduces their efficiency.

Current setup is enough to power everything in the trailer excluding the heater or air conditioning. Handles the fridge (2amp), wifi/small 750w inverter (2-3amp), 2 small fans/phone charger/speaker (maybe 4 amps max), big 4000w inverter with desktop computer (15 amps when playing higher load games), and misc other loads such as grinders, water pump, and the pellet grill.
 
What all are your power requirements/wants from the solar and batt setup? Added solar to my 5th wheel this summer and have been upgrading it as time goes on. Started out at 400 watts with an ACCO Power (brand) charge controller rated for up to 40 amps, maxed out at 15 amps being delivered to the batteries with that. Now at 1030 watts worth of solar panels and have seen up to 33 amps going to the batts. Mounted the panels flat to the roof so no need to play with them when moving but reduces their efficiency.

Current setup is enough to power everything in the trailer excluding the heater or air conditioning. Handles the fridge (2amp), wifi/small 750w inverter (2-3amp), 2 small fans/phone charger/speaker (maybe 4 amps max), big 4000w inverter with desktop computer (15 amps when playing higher load games), and misc other loads such as grinders, water pump, and the pellet grill.

The power requirements are pretty low. The ARB fridge has pretty low power consumption. All the lights in the camper are LED and most of the time I'm outside when we are parked. On the last Desert trip, I might have stayed up an hour or so after turning in while I downloaded the day's photos and video off of the SD cards. The laptop was not plugged in. I plan on adding a 400-500 watt inverter to charge the laptop and run my CPAP. I'd probably just run the laptop off the battery while I worked and let it charge off the inverter while driving when I'm not using it. That would take some of the load off the system when the sun isn't shining.

I looked at my power meter during the trip that has a 100amp shunt with the lights on, fridge at 36 degrees, cameras charging, phone plugged in I wasn't seeing over 5 amps.

It's pretty efficient right now, so the 240-watt panel is probably going to have no issue keeping the batteries up.
 
Had a 3 day weekend for the first time in a while for the holiday. Spent Sunday over at Larry's house taking care of some odds and ends. First off was addressing the ground that backed off a couple of weeks ago. I had the sucker tight and on my way home from work with the truck last week had it shut down at 65mph on the highway in the dark. Lucky for me there was a scenic overlook pullout just ahead and I coasted in. Crawled up to reach back to the ground on the back of the head and while the bolt was snug the ring terminal was loose. I hooked up my temporary ground and drove home. It got tightened the next day at my place but Larry and I decided we needed to do something about it. Either the bolt is too long and bottoming out before it's clamping the ground tight or it's not seating on the ring terminal quite right. The fix was to find a stud to install into the head and get the stud in tight and then the nut on the other end just needs to clamp the ring terminal and not have to hold the bolt into the head.

Next on the list was to address the leaky front output on the t-case and the wiped bushing on the rear tail shaft housing. Pretty simple to pull both shafts, Larry popped the front seal out and installed the new one. Odd thing is, that seal was brand new out of the reseal kit from ORD when he tore my 241 apart to install the 32 spline input. He's noticed each one he's done has had the same front seal leak, his in the Suburban and our buddy Andy's 208 in his suburban. I took the old rear housing off and swapped in the one Larry just took off his 241 to install the SYE on his Sub. He even caught me in action torquing the housing back on.
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The park brake was another task to tackle. Since I switched the front cable to the early design to match my brake cables on the axle we needed to mock up the intermediate cable. We saved all the parts from my '75 including the intermediate cable. I thought we could use it here, but the cable itself is way too long. We set a couple of small c-clamps to act as the cable hangers and connected it to the front cable and measured for length. 66 1/2" is the length we measured. Nothing in the squarebody realm is that short. I almost forgot to mention the trick little item Larry had found to provide a mount point for the rear of the front cable. We had a hole in the frame that was perfect, but if we mounted it there it would be poking out perpendicular to the frame and pointing right at the trans. Larry had found a guy making adapter brackets that would normally be used to use the newer style cables on the old style backing plates. I neglected to get a pic of it, but it's basically a short section of tube mounted to a flat plate at an angle. We mounted to the frame where the tube lined up with the hole and it allowed the cable to come through at the right angle and still put a clip on the end of the housing to lock it in. It put the cable aimed right at where the intermediate cable will be. I spent last night surfing the Dorman parts catalog online and found a intermediate cable from a '75-'79 Nova, Omega, Ventrua or Apollo. It's 66 inches on the nose. $12 later from Amazon and it's on the way.

The big chunk of the day was spent on the rear springs. Between the lean and the sag under a full load for a trip we needed to adjust the rear spring pack. Larry had a couple of old springs stashed away for plucking leafs out at a later date. We drug them out for disassembly. Larry's monster air bumper jack was put to work lifting the rear with the axle on stands already.
That jack is the cat's ass for sure. Super handy.
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The driver side spring gave us no issue at the spring eye bolts and came right out.
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Larry got going on cutting x's into the rivets in prep for air hammer surgery.
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The first Frankenstein pack. Three leaves were installed.
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We went ahead and installed it back on the driver's side and quickly realized the u-bolts we had were now at least an inch short. We only had about a half of the nut's worth of thread engagement. We didn't think to plan ahead on that. We thought there was enough length. Nope. So we decided to attack the passenger side to at least get the spring set up. That's when we hit the wall. You know you are always one or two stuck bolts away from an easy job turning into a nightmare. Yep, the front spring eye bolt was seized in the bushing sleeve. Even me trying to break it free with both of my legs pushing on a long breaker bar couldn't budge it. Same on the rear spring eye bolt. Stuck. Larry handed me the Sawzall and I proceeded to strip the teeth off of three blades over the course of 45 minutes. Made little to no progress. Time to get aggressive. Out comes the die grinder with a 4" cut off wheel. Safety glasses and a face shield came with it. 10 minutes later and I had cut the bolt enough what little spring tension was on it caused the head of the bolt pop off the frame with some velocity, where it tagged a finger on my left hand right on a knuckle. Ouch. We stopped for the night at that point.

Larry took over this morning cutting the rear bolt out.
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He also ran into town to get some longer u-bolts bent up and new spring bolts since we had to hack them out of the truck. But he got it. Frankenstein pack #2 is ready for bushing removal.
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$100 worth of freshly bent u-bolts and grade 8 bolts from the farm store.
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One bushing in. One to go.
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Should be ready for our annual New Years' snow run. The Target zone is supposed to be getting 12-24" on top of what they already had up there.
 
Those bumper jacks are the best.

Martin
That jack is handier than pockets on a shirt.

Larry got some help from our buddy Ian in the shop today and got the bushing pushed in. They had to finesse things as usual, but they got the job done.

Before with the factory rear spring:
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After with the franken-pack:
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The rear is up now for sure. It should come down a little with the truck loaded with gear for a run.
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You can see more of the rear axle now from the back than before. The step for back there is now mandatory to get in.

It don't have the saggy butt syndrome anymore.
 
That jack is handier than pockets on a shirt.
This makes me grin. It was one of my grandfather’s favorite phrases.

Truly top notch work on the truck. It’s such a Swiss Army knife of an adventure vehicle.

David
 
This makes me grin. It was one of my grandfather’s favorite phrases.

Truly top notch work on the truck. It’s such a Swiss Army knife of an adventure vehicle.

David

The funny thing is I 've known Rob for the better part of 25 years and I don't recall ever seeing him wear a shirt with a pocket :thinking:
 
This makes me grin. It was one of my grandfather’s favorite phrases.

Truly top notch work on the truck. It’s such a Swiss Army knife of an adventure vehicle.

David
Thanks dude! I love how it's shaping up.

Truck looks way better. I hate saggy ass syndrome. These jacks are pretty sweet too if you ever see one for a good price used. They can pick stuff up way high under the axles.
img.axd
That looks like a cool setup too.

We will see how the springs react when I load it down for a trip. Should come down a little. But at least it don't have the carolina squat anymore.

Larry managed to get a pretty cool shot while testing it yesterday.
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The funny thing is I 've known Rob for the better part of 25 years and I don't recall ever seeing him wear a shirt with a pocket :thinking:
I wear a button up Oxford shirt with a pocket 6 days a week. But then again we aren't the type of dudes who pays attention to each other's fashion choice. :haha:
 
I wear a button up Oxford shirt with a pocket 6 days a week. But then again we aren't the type of dudes who pays attention to each other's fashion choice. :haha:

Must be that ZZ Top pubic hair thing you got going on on your chin that covers the pockets. Never noticed any of them :haha:
 
Now I'm trying to remember if Rob had a beard when I met him the one time a few years ago. :thinking:
 
Was he wearing a pocket shirt? :haha:
Nah, I only wear the button up crap when I'm required to at work. When I met @mrk5 at the super cruise in golden I was in my normal anti-work attire, shorts and a t-shirt. I probably had the beard too.

If I had my way we'd be wearing polo shirts and loose the button up crap and ties at work. The whole shirt and tie business is a bit stuffy to the customers in my opinion.
 
So, being we had to cut out the passenger’s side spring pack due to the bolts being seized into the sleeves, we had no choice but to replace the spring bushings. Luckily, I happened to have just enough ORD spring bushings in stock to refresh one side. We’ll have to do the others another time.

For those that have not done spring bushings before or may be looking for an easier way to do them, here is method we’ve been using for the past few years. In the past I’ve spend hours soaking bushings with penetrating oil and pressing them out and other times I’ve burnt them and beat the hell out of them. Both ways really suck and eat a lot of time. A few years ago our buddy Ian said he read about using a hole saw and a hand band saw to get them out so I first tried it on my Suburban and it works fast! The biggest sticky wicky is not every one has a hand band saw but luckily Ian does.

First, get after it with the proper size hole saw without the center drill bit. Cut as long as you can until it gets to hot and starts smoking then roll the spring over and do the other side. Repeat until the rubber portion is out. It also helps to keep soaking the hole saw in water to cool it down
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Once that is done, situate things so the hand band saw can work. This particular saw had to be used upside down to fit
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Go to town with the saw until it cuts completely through
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Knock bushing loose from the spring eye
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Then knock it out
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Clean up the rusty eye and squeeze the new ones together
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Then figure out a way to open the spring hanger as the new ones will be much wider
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That’s pretty much it
:zombie18:
 
Nah, I only wear the button up crap when I'm required to at work. When I met @mrk5 at the super cruise in golden I was in my normal anti-work attire, shorts and a t-shirt. I probably had the beard too.

If I had my way we'd be wearing polo shirts and loose the button up crap and ties at work. The whole shirt and tie business is a bit stuffy to the customers in my opinion.
I've had customers tell me they would use us because I didn't show up for the sales call in a tie and dress shoes.
 
I've had customers tell me they would use us because I didn't show up for the sales call in a tie and dress shoes.
There was a time the auto industry was all suit and tie. The GM reps that visit the dealership still are, but when I was at the GM HQ in Detroit we were business casual. I think at the dealer level, Chevy specifically we don't need to be wearing ties. It's intimidating to some. Cadillac, mercedes, BMW sure but not Chevy. We sell pickup trucks and SUV's and a Corvette or Camaro every now and then.

The hang-up is our founding owner. He's old school as they come. I don't think he even owns a pair of jeans. He's retired but pops in regularly. He used to mow the football field they own next to the dealership. He did it in dress pants, shoes and a shirt sleeve button up shirt. Just the way he is, but I couldn't help to think it looked a lot like Forrest Gump since he was doing it on a residential sized Craftsman lawn tractor. Might be different later, but as long as he's popping in the ties stay.
 
I hate ties and dress pants. Feel awkward. And as a customer, it turns me off. Just seems very fake for someone to dress like that. Like they are putting on a show. I hate that.

As for spring eye bushings, I usually use the hole saw and then a sawzall to cut out the metal sleeve since I don’t own a bandsaw.
 
That jack is handier than pockets on a shirt.

Larry got some help from our buddy Ian in the shop today and got the bushing pushed in. They had to finesse things as usual, but they got the job done.

Before with the factory rear spring:
50778002332_94dec04ff1_c.jpg


After with the franken-pack:
50777891691_a28c1aa890_c.jpg


The rear is up now for sure. It should come down a little with the truck loaded with gear for a run.
50778002402_32b90793a3_c.jpg


50778002427_2f0a1bfdec_c.jpg


You can see more of the rear axle now from the back than before. The step for back there is now mandatory to get in.

It don't have the saggy butt syndrome anymore.
nice work! when you guys adjusted for the lean and sag did you put and extra leaf in or shims? I have a slight lean in the back springs and want to adjust for it once I add a couple extra leafs
 
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