I wonder if it works with other engines like the 5.7L & 7.4L.
CK5
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'91 K5 Four Wheel Camper
This is the build for my 1991 V1500 Blazer, AKA the K5.3. It started out life being sold to the U.S. Government with a 350 TBI/700r4/241 combo. 4 years with a 5.3/700r4 Combo and now moving to an 8.1L Vortec and NV4500 5-speed.
Someone on CK5 could buy it and then rent it out to other members.
^that's my plan and I found a 4" PVC coupler is the right diameter for the installation. We'll see how it goes this weekend.
Mannys are on. Orange big blocks make me happy. 
Don't recall, was new/refurbished set of injectors sorced ?
Well I go through phases, I am working making money I buy tools.
I have no job and plenty of time, I make tools
The attention to detail with the tools is nice, but we all know we have put seals in not using special tools.
I do applaud those who use them though, it really is a nice piece of mind.
I do applaud those who use them though, it really is a nice piece of mind.
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That question got me thinking as it would seem something in that kit should be compatible with other engines so I looked up each of the J tool numbers and each one is indeed 8.1L specific....and the PSI 8.8L. Kent-Moore probably just changed one tiny thing on a somewhat common tool to make it "unique" so they could screw dealers blue with more essential tools they must buy
I need to add these tool numbers to the 8.1 Resource Thread too
Indeed, and we've all also gotten burned by ruining $35 rear main seals trying to get them in or end up with a leaker. Ask my Nissan Hardbody about that...thats why it parks on the dirt
If a seal isn't in straight it will work almost like a gerotor pump and push oil right out. No friggin way am I going to tolerate a rear main seal leak on any of these modern engines .....especially when it is so much work to pull an engine or trans and transfercase in one of these things to fix it. I could park any of mine on white carpet and only those with a 205 would leave a small spot after sitting for months on end. It seems as though ALL 205s leak something from the stupid speedo adapter dealeo no matter what you do or how many times the stupid adapter is replaced
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My trans always leaks between the tcase no matter what I do. The converter draining, and the week hole to that tail shaft from the pan on a 4l60e is the dumbest thing ever.That question got me thinking as it would seem something in that kit should be compatible with other engines so I looked up each of the J tool numbers and each one is indeed 8.1L specific....and the PSI 8.8L. Kent-Moore probably just changed one tiny thing on a somewhat common tool to make it "unique" so they could screw dealers blue with more essential tools they must buy
I need to add these tool numbers to the 8.1 Resource Thread too
Indeed, and we've all also gotten burned by ruining $35 rear main seals trying to get them in or end up with a leaker. Ask my Nissan Hardbody about that...thats why it parks on the dirt
If a seal isn't in straight it will work almost like a gerotor pump and push oil right out. No friggin way am I going to tolerate a rear main seal leak on any of these modern engines .....especially when it is so much work to pull an engine or trans and transfercase in one of these things to fix it. I could park any of mine on white carpet and only those with a 205 would leave a small spot after sitting for months on end. It seems as though ALL 205s leak something from the stupid speedo adapter dealeo no matter what you do or how many times the stupid adapter is replaced
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That's odd, but it seems there is always one thing that won't cooperate on every rig. For me, it's speedo adapters
I've had great luck with this GM super goo...I literally use it for everything. I don't even use gaskets between transmissions and transfercases and just use this. Same with 241, 205s and NV4500s.....no gaskets on any covers or bearing retainers...just this. Unlike other stuff, you can actually get things apart the next time without needing a jack hammer to get it apart and its cleans off easy. It's really not that expensive either...like 20 bux a tube and it lasts a long time.
The corners of Rob's oil pan and intake have this exact stuff. This is actually the goo GM calls for on these engines and just about everything else. Navistar has the same stuff in a different tube and supposedly the exact same recipe....it's even gray but it's twice as expensive through my local International dealer than through my GM dealer buddy. For me to get any kind of employee discount I'd have to buy a case of it.
Oh dang! I need to do that hose clamp trick! Couple of times lately I've popped the gun loose and the plunger slid back too far and the rtv tube fell out.
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The hose clamp trick is wise old man stuff picked up from Rob's old lead tech, Harlan, at the Chevy dealer in Canon City. He is retired now and the shop hasn't ever been the same
Screw that Navistar grey crap. I hate it. I was taught to use the caulk tubes of The Right Stuff on everything after I had a stupid 7.3L pan leak early in my career. I used to have tons of brand new tubes of that grey stuff from every in-frame kit that came with it. I'll have to look but I might still have some brand new 10 yr old ones from when I left the dealership LOL.
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I have not actually used it myself to confirm its the same RTV but I've heard many times that it is. I've also heard it's not made by the typical automotive chemical people like 3M, Permatex, etc. but a pharmaceutical company, which sounds weird.
Uggghhh, Right Stuff.....only use that if you know you'll never be the one to take that thing apart again or don't care about the person you know that will. That stuff is brutal to get apart later. I destroyed a 14 bolt diff cover trying to break that crap loose. I swear it's stronger than JB weld.....and probably my actual welds
The GM stuff does have a shelf life. I bought a pair that were solid as a rock and the dealer exchanged it with no questions asked so I don't hoard it other than 2 tubes on hand at a time
Can you provide the PN for the cloyse timing set?
C3222.
Little update……
The Crawlabago lives again. The plan was for me to come down last weekend to pull the old engine out and stuff the new one in. Señor Larry planning ahead got the truck in his shop and by Thursday the engine was out.
The tranny and t-case was pulled to facilitate stuffing the fresh engine back in as we both knew it fought us going in originally.
We were texting back and forth Friday about last minute parts I needed to bring that he didn’t have. Exhaust donut that Bezos shorted us on, the ‘03 later cam sensor plug, coolant and a battery.
But Larry didn’t miss an opportunity to leave me a note to be found later.
I joked he should have wrote it on the inside of the window for a better reminder.
But I arrived Friday night after work and we had some beers and mapped out the plan for the next day. I didn’t have enough coolant and we needed some gm sealant. Picked away at some little stuff and I grabbed the parts. I got the stuff and we got rolling to put the trans and t-case back in the truck.
We got it stuffed in and locked it down with the crossmember. I went to work on the driveshafts while Larry worked on the clutch, starter other items underneath. This is when I found the the driveshaft I had made to go with the SYE on the t-case. The end with the slip ended up coming with a 1310 joint and it needed to be a 1350. Length was spot on, but the smaller joint wasn’t going to work. I took it back out. The front went back in fine.
Larry re-pinned the cam sensor to the new plug and I out the thermostat and battery back in. Bill came over to harass us and grabbed us lunch.
After lunch it was time to twist the key and after nothing happened it dawned on me I missed one power wire for the ecm. With that fixed we cycled the fuel pump to prime the system. With a pressure gauge on the tail we knew we had enough to run. It lit right off. It took a little while for the lifters to quiet down but they did.
View attachment IMG_6565.mov
We got another weekend of work to do but it will be coming home soon.
The Crawlabago lives again. The plan was for me to come down last weekend to pull the old engine out and stuff the new one in. Señor Larry planning ahead got the truck in his shop and by Thursday the engine was out.
The tranny and t-case was pulled to facilitate stuffing the fresh engine back in as we both knew it fought us going in originally.
We were texting back and forth Friday about last minute parts I needed to bring that he didn’t have. Exhaust donut that Bezos shorted us on, the ‘03 later cam sensor plug, coolant and a battery.
But Larry didn’t miss an opportunity to leave me a note to be found later.
I joked he should have wrote it on the inside of the window for a better reminder.
But I arrived Friday night after work and we had some beers and mapped out the plan for the next day. I didn’t have enough coolant and we needed some gm sealant. Picked away at some little stuff and I grabbed the parts. I got the stuff and we got rolling to put the trans and t-case back in the truck.
We got it stuffed in and locked it down with the crossmember. I went to work on the driveshafts while Larry worked on the clutch, starter other items underneath. This is when I found the the driveshaft I had made to go with the SYE on the t-case. The end with the slip ended up coming with a 1310 joint and it needed to be a 1350. Length was spot on, but the smaller joint wasn’t going to work. I took it back out. The front went back in fine.
Larry re-pinned the cam sensor to the new plug and I out the thermostat and battery back in. Bill came over to harass us and grabbed us lunch.
After lunch it was time to twist the key and after nothing happened it dawned on me I missed one power wire for the ecm. With that fixed we cycled the fuel pump to prime the system. With a pressure gauge on the tail we knew we had enough to run. It lit right off. It took a little while for the lifters to quiet down but they did.
View attachment IMG_6565.mov
We got another weekend of work to do but it will be coming home soon.
Very cool!! 
