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PLAN B

This build was 2 parts 1 i have a truck I made to pretty to wheel so I'm building an ugly one I can actually enjoy. And 2. My cousin has been trying to join us for blazer bash but his truck wont be ready so we are surprising him with this one
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man everyone has such a hard on for amsoil, I have never used this magic unicorn juice but it must be good stuff i hear about it all the time.

soooo.... eeeffff...... first time ever i am down to the wire getting my rigs ready and its not in my hands.

so the inner axle seal drained the diff so i have a shop doing that. it was supposed to be done today but he now says very first thing tomorrow he will get it done. and my tow rig was getting a diff seal fixed at my buddies shop and it was supposed to be done no later than today but the diff housing is messed up so they had to send the diff to the same shop that has PB so that one shop is now my pinch point for getting both rigs done and on the road tomorrow... im confident he will get it done but shit i am down to the wire and it's stressful
 
I first used Amsoil for a power steering fluid that I read about on Pirate. It was a pain tho because I usually only needed a quart or 2. Then in the past year or so I started using their engine oil because of the oil they have for the flat tappet cams, the stuff with zinc. There's Z-rod and also XL. You can get an preferred customer account so that you can order direct at lower prices; you don't have to find a dealer anymore. There's a fee for the account, but if you're committed to using Amsoil it's worth it. I use it in everything now including company vehicles, that makes 4 personal vehicles (3 with the flat tappet cams) and 2 company vehicles. Plus I used Amsoil for the ATF in the 4l80e and Magnum I put in the crew cab.

I guess you could say I have a hard on for Amsoil now.
 
I had someone give me some Amsoil gear lube, it didn't impress me enough to use it again vs Schaeffer's, but it isn't easy to find without a dealer. I have been using it in the trucks at work for a while, and have gotten good results. The price is very competitive to off the shelf stuff for what it is.
 
Got the axle seals and rear pinion seal fixed. Now the front diff cover leaks lmfao... cant win. Screw it, it will work for this trip....

Even with the baby tires i had to squeeze this thing on there. I think its time to get a flat bed with rollover wheel wells or some super skinny tires with better offset wheels as trailer tires.

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the_blaze said:
Got the axle seals and rear pinion seal fixed. Now the front diff cover leaks lmfao... cant win. Screw it, it will work for this trip....

Even with the baby tires i had to squeeze this thing on there. I think its time to get a flat bed with rollover wheel wells or some super skinny tires with better offset wheels as trailer tires.

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Don’t forget to check the air pressure in your trailer tires.
 
Eventful trip,
Damage report..... broke my back window, broke the slip yolk on my rear driveline, broke motor mounts, and somehow tweaked the frame.... the more i look at it the less i understand what happened to it or what's going on.....
I thought i banged the crossmember but now im wondering if my frame is twisting and thats whats going on here... towards the end of the second day if i wasnt level my fan was eating the shroud, it got to a point where if i was on it mildly hard the fan was in the shroud, but it also seemed worse if i was turning so thats where I start wondering if its twisting...

Im sure an ord crossmember and mounts will help. And installing the a-bomb bumper will help stiffen things up.

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anyone have any thoughts on that dent on my frame and the twist to my crossmember? could that be frame twisting or more likely that i hit it?

if my frame is twisting i wonder if the ord crossmember, motor mounts and the a-bomb bumper will "solve" the issue and keep my fan out of the shroud.

I'm likely over thinking it and motor mounts will fix it.... but still what a weird dent...
 
Welcome to seriously wheeling with little consideration for your truck Joey!!!!!!!!!!

I'm sure many have seen that exact bend in the frame. Not totally sure why it happens as your frame shouldn't be twisting too much right there with the sliders. Better than stock crossmember ( good fab project) are gonna help. Going to better motor mounts and trans t case stuff too.

But PB did awesome. Just working out some kinks is all
 
Do you see anywhere that it hit on the skid or the crossmember.

Also could have happened when you punched the slip yoke. Might have shoved everything forward a bit, bending the frame and taking out the motor mount too.
 
72gmck5 said:
Do you see anywhere that it hit on the skid or the crossmember.

Also could have happened when you punched the slip yoke. Might have shoved everything forward a bit, bending the frame and taking out the motor mount too.
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HAHAHA yeah wheeling without caring is 110% more fun and i would highly suggest it to others!

its possible that's when it happened...I cant see any really clear hit marks but everything is pretty dirty... i just didn't hear my driveline hitting the crossmember until half way through the second day, its possible i bent it when i bounced and it didn't start to hit until the mounts died... hmmm....
I'm already eager to dig into it.
upgrades and redesigns always make me happy :)
 
Personally I don't like how much, or rather how little, frame contact there is with the factory crossmember; especially if you have just the one. I like to run a crossmember for both ends of the skid plate and fabricate them with at least 6" long angle or flat strap along the bottom of the frame rail to spread the load out. And the brackets along the frame rail I try to get wide enough it's covering the entire flange of the frame.
 
your whole motor was banging around and stressing the shit out of the trans mount & crossmember. Install some of the aftermarket engine mounts and build yourself a real crossmember with poly mount(s).
 
you know looking at pictures im leaning less towards frame twisting and more towards just killing my motor mounts. if you look my bumpers stay level even with the truck flexed to the max.

I plan to add a second crossmember that i can attach the skid plate to. i think that's a much better design.
 
the_blaze said:
you know looking at pictures im leaning less towards frame twisting and more towards just killing my motor mounts. if you look my bumpers stay level even with the truck flexed to the max.

I plan to add a second crossmember that i can attach the skid plate to. i think that's a much better design.
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no doubt the motor was throwing around my trans and tcase, walking next to it before i realized my mounts went out i could see a ton of movement in the tcase. ( the trans mount does look like its in great shape though, i am sure its super soft now after 8 hours of wiggling.
 
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