CK5
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PLAN B

This build was 2 parts 1 i have a truck I made to pretty to wheel so I'm building an ugly one I can actually enjoy. And 2. My cousin has been trying to join us for blazer bash but his truck wont be ready so we are surprising him with this one
I betcha your cookies taste like paint. :haha:

One tip before you stuff that 241 back up in there. Make sure you check the threads where the adapter bolts up to it. Mine came loose not too soon after I started driving it. I ended up having to install thread inserts to repair it. Once that was done I used a little locktite on the bolts to make sure it wasn't going anywhere.
 
I betcha your cookies taste like paint. :haha:

One tip before you stuff that 241 back up in there. Make sure you check the threads where the adapter bolts up to it. Mine came loose not too soon after I started driving it. I ended up having to install thread inserts to repair it. Once that was done I used a little locktite on the bolts to make sure it wasn't going anywhere.
Oh yeah I used blue loctite on all 6 bolts.

In the winter time I like to heat my parts up a little before painting them.
 
Oh yeah I used blue loctite on all 6 bolts.

In the winter time I like to heat my parts up a little before painting them.

I get it on the 6 bolts. I was pointing out the 4 bolts for the adapter to the trans. Those are the ones notorious for backing out.
 
Ooops forgot to really take any pictures but the SLC syndicate strikes again. Another group effort build. Shout out to @ashman @72gmck5 @Fullerton @Drummingpeke for all the help! We got all the rear bushings done, rear shackles installed and the 241 in. I drove home in front wheel drive. Only issue I found was a leak on the speedo housing. Shouldn't be bad to pull and reseal real quick before I get my new driveline in.

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I get it on the 6 bolts. I was pointing out the 4 bolts for the adapter to the trans. Those are the ones notorious for backing out.
Yeah, Wade and I both have had trouble with those bolts. I would probably even use red loctite since you not likely to need to pull those out.
 
Yeah, Wade and I both have had trouble with those bolts. I would probably even use red loctite since you not likely to need to pull those out.
Wonder if it's worth pulling them one at a time and adding red loctite?

I used quite a bit of blue loctite. Also wonder if checking them before each trip is a good idea or if turning the bolt at all will break the grip of the loctite?
 
I would do it if it's convenient. I was also contemplating getting some of the serrated flange head bolts to try.

Before I put the Magnum in, it was getting to be a regular occurrence. Happened a couple times at Blazer Bash. I had to stop and buy a wrench on the drive home from Blazer Bash so I could tighten them up. I don't normally carry much metric and in my truck they were a pain to get to.
 
Mine was bad enough they were stripped. Went to tighten and just as it was starting to get tight it got loose again. Had to fix it.

I installed 4 time-sert thread inserts to the trans case. They are like a heli-coil on steroids. We use them at the dealership for replacing wiped out threads on aluminum blocks on Northstar caddy engines. They are a solid instead of a coil like insert. They install to the case with red loctite and I used blue on the bolts. 3 years no issues.
 
weird i never had an issue with my silver truck, i have had that trans and tcase out like 5 times, it's a 700r4 with 208. maybe i just got lucky...
As far as easy to get to.... if i pull the front driveline (which i might pull again to step up from a 1310 to 1350 ) then it's not to bad and maybe i will pull them just to coat them in red loctite ;)

I did notice something i'm not super thrilled about... It seems the vent (metal vent tube) on top of the tcase moves around... in my pile of tcases half of them the little metal tube moves and the other half it doesn't.. hope that doesn't cause me issues (leaks). I also noticed that some fluid came out the 1" long rubber tube and vent i added to the vent tube... is it possible that driving it 20+ miles at 50ish in front wheel drive only would have heated stuff up enough that fluid came out the vent or any ideas what would cause that?
 
weird i never had an issue with my silver truck, i have had that trans and tcase out like 5 times, it's a 700r4 with 208. maybe i just got lucky...
As far as easy to get to.... if i pull the front driveline (which i might pull again to step up from a 1310 to 1350 ) then it's not to bad and maybe i will pull them just to coat them in red loctite ;)

I did notice something i'm not super thrilled about... It seems the vent (metal vent tube) on top of the tcase moves around... in my pile of tcases half of them the little metal tube moves and the other half it doesn't.. hope that doesn't cause me issues (leaks). I also noticed that some fluid came out the 1" long rubber tube and vent i added to the vent tube... is it possible that driving it 20+ miles at 50ish in front wheel drive only would have heated stuff up enough that fluid came out the vent or any ideas what would cause that?
Front wheel drive on the highway will do that
 
I think you're going to want a longer tube though. They can still get warm and puke a little fluid if it's not long enough.
 
I think you're going to want a longer tube though. They can still get warm and puke a little fluid if it's not long enough.
I added the long tube i had in my box of parts on monday after i saw it puked. hopefully it keeps the fluid where it belongs.
 
You should add a hose that goes up to the top of your transmission dipstick tube.
This is how I have found the factory ones to be. And make sure that it doesn't get a droop in it, it will cause a little fluid to end up sitting in the low spot because it can't run back into the case. It will then burp out when the case warms up! Small smoke show!

I had one 241 that the metal elbow was loose and it seeped oil whenever I drove it because of the planetary gears throwing oil off. The little cast-in deflector wasn't enough to keep it from seeping. And it is not a threaded part, it just swedges into the case. Pulled it, cleaned the oil out of the hole carefully, then sealer at the flange of the tube, tap it in, attach the hose and tie it where it will go. Then I left it sit overnight before I drove it. That worked until quit driving it.

I personally would not put red loctite on a bolt going into aluminum that I MAY possibly want to remove. Heating it to release it can be a pain and can still pull threads.
And supposedly if you turn the bolt with loctite on it, it ruins the bond of it, but I don't know for sure.
 
Rear driveline is in.... I got problems. In front wheel drive it drove fine. No issues, made turns all that was fine. Now with the rear shaft in if I go to turn I'm getting popping or clunking sounds. Never did that with the 208. I think one time I experienced this when it wasn't fully in gear. Maybe I need to adjust the lever or something... drives fine in 2wd...

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My 205 clunks, tires squeal and truck does a dance when turning in 4wd. Straight it is fine.
I'd say compare it to really loud/ bad rod knock.... also almost feels like binding. Keep in mind I have had one of these old k10 or k5 trucks for the last 19 years... I also drove this truck days ago cycling through 4wd and turning. This is totally new... either I busted a ujoint somewhere up front or my tcase is out of adjustment or built wrong . Looking at the linkage for the other 241s and 208s I have my guess is I need to fine tune that.

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