Nope still clunking. I took it to the shop that pressed the bearings for me. They think they may have messed up. If that's the case it's on them not me to pull and fix. They have had it for a week and no updates. I'm sure it's a low priority
CK5
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PLAN B
This build was 2 parts 1 i have a truck I made to pretty to wheel so I'm building an ugly one I can actually enjoy.
And 2. My cousin has been trying to join us for blazer bash but his truck wont be ready so we are surprising him with this one
Everyone please follow this think and vote for @ashman and his bad ass pigeonrat
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=2882853785112755&id=1040626192668866
Please and thank you!!!
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=2882853785112755&id=1040626192668866
Please and thank you!!!
So the local tcase and driveline shop has had my truck for over a month... they say they have gone through and looked at my front end, rear end, both lockers, both drivelines and tcase and cant for the life of them figure out why it clunks/bangs while turning in four wheel drive... I dont want to stick the 208 back in but I'm not sure that I can trust the 241 now and I have no idea where to look from here....
Well they can't figure out why or where?
Do you know where the noise is coming from?
If you can that is the first piece of the puzzle
Let me get this straight. The truck didn't make any noises in 4wd prior to swapping the 208 out. The noise came on with the 241 install. I'm not saying this to be a smart ass, but if that's the scenario then the only thing that changed was the t-case. Did they actually open it up? It doesn't make sense if the rest of the truck was quiet prior to the 241 and noisy after it came in and not be in the t-case.
241's are pretty simple to tear down and wouldn't be much to get it open to find where the problem is.
241's are pretty simple to tear down and wouldn't be much to get it open to find where the problem is.
I'm with you 100% they said they tore it apart but my gut says they haven't. Absolutely no noise before the 241... and anyone that knows me knows how "particular" I am especially about noises and vibrations. I would have definitely noticed this no question...
I tried calling them on Friday and they weren't answering so I'll call again Monday and say I need answers including evidence they opened the case
Maybe the chain is slipping/popping. My old 203 did that.
Possible I guess. It was a brand new chain
I just dealt with a shop dicking me around. I really hope you get this figured and they don't do the same to you.. I'm with everyone else in thinking it's got to be the 241 and that should be on the shop, no questions asked.
I called and the shop is saying i should take it and run it for a while and see what happens... he said maybe the new chain and the old gears have a little play and need to break in to each other?? i will say this... after driving it to his shop the banging was less prominent an the shifting seemed better. I may pick it up today and drive it around a while or just take it to a different shop...
he is going to pull the front driveline and do the same tests again just for good measure, then have a guy walk next to the truck to look/listen for where the sound is coming from then he is giving it back to me to figure out...
You need a new shop, this is stupid simple.
unfortunately I agree 100%
The shop told me today (after 5 weeks of "diagnostics") "I can't figure it out... why dont you pick it up and take it wheeling. When something blows up or gets worse we should be able to pin point it"..... 
The shop told me today (after 5 weeks of "diagnostics") "I can't figure it out... why dont you pick it up and take it wheeling. When something blows up or gets worse we should be able to pin point it".....
If they rebuilt the 241 or at least put in the chain, that's a friggin BS answer. Stuff happens for sure, I see it at our shop from time to time but how they handle it really tells you something. If we got it wrong after a rebuild we'd be the first ones to yank the sucker and go back over our work. Telling you to wheel it and bring it backs when it breaks is the worst answer they could give. For one they don't know or understand how to pinpoint the noise and secondly, they don't give two shits to try and find it either.
When you go pick it up (and you should) see if they are willing to refund part or all of the bill if another shop finds the problem in what they supposedly fixed. Again how they answer it is going to tell you volumes on what kind of outfit they are. Most would not allow it because it's cheaper for them to do it themselves than pay full retail at another shop. But seeing as how they've proven they can't isolate the noise, much less fix the problem they should entertain the idea. If they don't, it's pretty easy to see they don't stand behind their work.
I'm spoiled at the dealership with all the tools we have to buy for GM's essential tools because there's one tool, in particular, that is awesome for isolating drivetrain noises. It's called "Chassis Ears". Which really is nothing more than 5 or 6 wired mic's feeding into one box with a knob to select each mic or channel separately. The box has a headphone output so you can listen with full coverage headphones. You place the mic/sensors where you want to isolate the noise and go drive the truck in such a way to make the noise happen. While someone drives the user can switch channels to help pinpoint the source. If you aren't hearing it well, stop and relocate the sensors and do it again.
We use them when we can hear the noise while driving but not on the lift running at the same speed with now no load. Sometimes it really only happens with the load applied which is where the Chassis Ears really help. If you could put your hands on some it could be very helpful.
That sounds way better than how we did it back in the day.
We'd just have a buddy hang his head out the door as close to under the vehicle as possible and listen.
We'd just have a buddy hang his head out the door as close to under the vehicle as possible and listen.
I want to try this....
I did notice the banging is at its worst when turning tight and my foot off the gas. I give it gas it gets better....
PROBLEM HAS BEEN POSITIVELY IDENTIFIED......
FRONT DRIVELINE DOUBLE CARDAN.....
5 weeks at a driveline shop and they can't find the issue.... 30 mins at my friends tunex and boom problem solved. I pulled the driveline from nightmare and stuck it in PB and it's fixed....
I guess driving it 20+ miles at 55-60 mph in front wheel drive only finished it off. That explains why it only started after the 241 install....
New 1350 long slip driveline being built right now.... lol wow....
FRONT DRIVELINE DOUBLE CARDAN.....
5 weeks at a driveline shop and they can't find the issue.... 30 mins at my friends tunex and boom problem solved. I pulled the driveline from nightmare and stuck it in PB and it's fixed....
I guess driving it 20+ miles at 55-60 mph in front wheel drive only finished it off. That explains why it only started after the 241 install....
New 1350 long slip driveline being built right now.... lol wow....
Did I mention it in the beginning?PROBLEM HAS BEEN POSITIVELY IDENTIFIED......
FRONT DRIVELINE DOUBLE CARDAN.....
5 weeks at a driveline shop and they can't find the issue.... 30 mins at my friends tunex and boom problem solved. I pulled the driveline from nightmare and stuck it in PB and it's fixed....
I guess driving it 20+ miles at 55-60 mph in front wheel drive only finished it off. That explains why it only started after the 241 install....
New 1350 long slip driveline being built right now.... lol wow....
I know I have said it in a few posts already but I had a similar experience and it didn't take long to find out.
Same day.
