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79 K5 Prerunner "Lucy"

Overview Gallery Discussion
sreidmx said:
So I blew the dust off Lucy on Memorial Day, what better way to be american and be thankful for all the amazing things we get to enjoy than fabricating for a morning!
These dash tubes have been made for a while, I squares them up and welded them in, and of course the welder decided that the liner needs to be replaced... ughh I am so tired of inconsistency on the machines part. My goal here is to finish the major fab that requires the big shop tools and to get any major system working. So for now I'll use the stock brake lines and fuel lines to save time. I'll build some long braided brake lines front and rear. I need to have the rear driveline redone with the 1350 up at the trans to handle the angles. 1310 is hitting right now.

The checks that have been marked now are, rear axle is done, brakes are on and welded, gears in, installed and sealed in the housing. All that is left is the vent line.
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I have decided that next year sometime I'll re build the engine cage when I get shorter front shocks. That way I can use the 17s in back on a trailing arm. For now I'm gonna leave it with tree springs in back and with the cantilever. If it works good we might come out with the design for sale.. we'll see.
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One other thought I had was to ditch this column, I know where a good tilt is and it has the smaller gm wheel on it. This one is rallied and moved inches up and down and is not supposed to..
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Here is a generic idea of the location of my shifter, not sure if this is where I want it or not. I gotta get one of the two midgets(@secutright or @retroblazer) to sit in the truck and see if their short arms can reach it. I already know they're gonna need booster seats. My shoulder is just above the window line for the drivers door. I did this so I have room for a helmet and not bang my head on the b pillar..
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I thought 1310's have more angle than 1350's. The only advantage was the strength.
 
1310 have a 30° max operating angle.

1350 has a 20° max operating angle

1410 has 35°

That's from memory so not totally sure on exact angles but I know the 1350 has less angle capacity
 
I guess I forgot to post the picture. I need to measure the actual angle but it's touching the yoke at full droop, the axle already has 1350 joints in it and there is no where close to anything touching. It won't be under torque at this angle.
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It's too short anyway at the slip yoke, I have to have it redone. That's the main reason for the 1350 is the parts are spaced apart more which takes up some of my extra length I thought I needed for plunge that doesn't exist lol
 
What happened was I got given a 700r4 slip yoke when I bought the trans I didn't know there was two versions one being the th350 and is 2 inches shorter. Well the one I bought is 1310 and the 700 is some 3r yoke so the joints don't match anyway. So rather than mess with the small joints I will likeley break I figured 1350 works on the racetruck just fine so I am essentially copying that. Remember this is the Prerunner we'll be using so if I can match something I will in a heartbeat. As of right now, the wheels, rear axle, 3rd member, and engine are all the same.
 
You can grind a stock 1350 yoke for more angle than the stock yokes.

But I checked my post above and it is correct
 
blazinzuk said:
You can grind a stock 1350 yoke for more angle than the stock yokes.

But I checked my post above and it is correct
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I remember you telling me that so I stayed with 1310's in my truggy. No problems. I'm just going to hog out my stockers to handle full droop.
 
blazinzuk said:
You can grind a stock 1350 yoke for more angle than the stock yokes.

But I checked my post above and it is correct
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I went to banning driveline and we found that also to be true but the offsets of the 1350 are greater. I don't know the operating angle right now anyway so I'll check it.
We also may try making a centering jig so I can drill the output shaft and tap it so the yoke is fixed so I can use a normal style slip yoke shaft, even the standard slips are around 3.5 - 4 inches of usable travel which should be fine.
 
Why aren't you using a standard fixed yoke ? I don't think I have seen a slip yoke used in a long travel suspension. I know there isn't much plunge in the rear, even with leaf springs, so it shouldn't be an issue .
 
retroblazer said:
Why aren't you using a standard fixed yoke ? I don't think I have seen a slip yoke used in a long travel suspension. I know there isn't much plunge in the rear, even with leaf springs, so it shouldn't be an issue .
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I thought the same, this is a good idea and assure no broken cases.
 
The th350 never came with a normal fixed yoke so I'll have to make it fixed. Precisely what I plan to do.
 
folkenheath said:
Is it "fixed" yet? ba dump ching! :waytogo:

Just curious if this thing is moving under its own power?
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I have been fighting the damn slip yoke BS so I am going to just stuff a conversion joint in there so I can move it home. Once I get it rolling I can take it to my driveshaft guy so he can set it up.
I did make the floor tubes for the c to b pillars two weeks ago and I will have to redo the steering before I can drive it.
 
I didn't know they never offered a fixed yoke turbo 350, what about swapping to a fixed yoke turbo 400 or can you do a slip yoke eliminator like they do on an NP208 and just drill and tap the output shaft for a bolt?
 
Truckman4life said:
I didn't know they never offered a fixed yoke turbo 350, what about swapping to a fixed yoke turbo 400 or can you do a slip yoke eliminator like they do on an NP208 and just drill and tap the output shaft for a bolt?
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Well they didn’t, I have heard of guys drilling the tailshaft for it but this trans was a stop gap until I could afford to build a stout th400 and now the engine and trans combo are literally a stop gap until I can afford a gen iv ls combo with a 6l90 or 4l80 to stick in here.. sucky part is I just cam swapped this motor and put a new converter and transformer kit in this to help it survive and it hasn’t even been run yet!
We’ll see how it runs, if the Holley cooperates and I can dial it in pretty quick and am happy with how it drives it’ll stay longer.. the choppy idle it has now definitely says it’s got something going on..
the smooth ls idle wouldn’t cut it and a man cam and possibly boost would need to be added
 
folkenheath said:
I'll take the blame for that, even though I suspect it was just a coincidence. :D

I want to see this thing jumping!
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It is your fault!!
I literally made me think this morning screw it... Heath is right I need to get my ass going and what am I waiting for??
 
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